Lot 302
  • 302

Diamond, Onyx and Emerald 'Double Panther' Bracelet, Cartier, France

Estimate
275,000 - 375,000 USD
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Description

  • platinum, onyx, diamond, emerald
Designed as pair of opposing panthers, pavé-set with round diamonds, with buff top onyx spots, completed by pear-shaped emerald eyes, internal circumference 6 inches, signed Cartier, numbered 13623C, with French assay and workshop mark. With signed box.

Condition

In very good condition, with faint surface scratches to the interior mounting commensurate with light wear. Signed Cartier and numbered 13623C. Stamped with French assay marks for platinum and French workshop mark. The diamonds, estimated to weigh a total of approximately 20.00 carats, are approximately D-G color, VVS-VS clarity. The buff-top onyx is in very good condition. The pear-shaped emeralds are a vivid green color, eye-clean. The body of each panther rotates to create an open position to allow for the bracelet to be placed on the wrist. This bracelet demonstrates excellent craftsmanship and the pavé-setting is impressively made.
In response to your inquiry, we are pleased to provide you with a general report of the condition of the property described above. Since we are not professional conservators or restorers, we urge you to consult with a restorer or conservator of your choice who will be better able to provide a detailed, professional report. Prospective buyers should inspect each lot to satisfy themselves as to condition and must understand that any statement made by Sotheby's is merely a subjective qualified opinion. Illustrations in the catalogue may not be actual size. Prospective purchasers are reminded that, unless the catalogue description specifically states that a stone is natural, we have assumed that some form of treatment may have been used and that such treatment may not be permanent. Our presale estimates reflect this assumption.Certificates of Authenticity: Various manufacturers may not issue certificates of authenticity upon request. Sotheby's is not under an obligation to furnish the purchaser with a certificate of authenticity from the manufacturer at any time. Unless the requirements for a rescission of the sale under the Terms of Guarantee are satisfied, the failure of a manufacturer to issue a certificate will not constitute grounds to rescind the sale. Gemological Certificates and Reports: References in the catalogue descriptions to certificates or reports issued by gemological laboratories are provided only for the information of bidders, and Sotheby's does not guarantee and accepts no responsibility for the accuracy, terms or information contained in such certificates or reports. Please also note that laboratories may differ in their assessment of a gemstone (including its origin and presence, type and extent of treatments) and their certificates or reports may contain different results.NOTWITHSTANDING THIS REPORT OR ANY DISCUSSIONS CONCERNING CONDITION OF A LOT, ALL LOTS ARE OFFERED AND SOLD "AS IS" IN ACCORDANCE WITH THE CONDITIONS OF SALE PRINTED IN THE CATALOGUE.

Catalogue Note

Exotic, elegant, and powerful, the panther motif utilized by Cartier is perhaps one of the most easily spotted jewelry designs of all time. It was under Jeanne Toussaint’s leadership as creative director that the panther became a hallmark subject for the house in 1918. ‘Panthère’ would later become Toussaint’s own nickname, dubbed so by Louis Cartier himself. Toussaint’s chic and contemporary style helped the feline-inspired creations to flourish, with legendary jewelry collectors such as the Duchess of Windsor, Barbara Hutton and Princess Nina Aga Khan commissioning custom cats of their own.

 

Today the panther has become fully entrenched within the Cartier brand, with the felines themselves even making appearances alongside their jeweled counterparts in advertisements for the firm. The panther jewels display Cartier’s unmatched craftsmanship, with many of them moving with the distinct neatness of panthers in the wild. The bracelet offered here, for example, sleekly swivels to be placed on the wrist. Cartier has consistently evolved and reinvented the panther over the last 100 years, proving that icons can stand the test of time.