Diamond and onyx jewel, 'Tiger', Cartier, 1950s, and a natural pearl bracelet

The clasp designed as a tiger, pavé-set with single-cut diamonds of yellow tint and polished onyx, the eyes set with marquise-shaped emeralds, unsigned, numbered, French assay and maker's marks, the bracelet later added, composed of three rows of natural pearls measuring from approximately 3.85 to 4.45mm, length approximately 170mm.  

Accompanied by SSEF report no. 89994, stating that the eighty-five pearls measuring from approximately 3.85 to 4.45mm, were found to be natural, saltwater. Also accompanied by a copy of a quote from Cartier to convert the clasp, which was originally part of a bracelet, into a brooch. Clasp numbered 010453, French maker's mark for Cartier, French assay mark for 18 carat gold, mounted in yellow gold. Diamonds of yellow tint, bright and lively, estimated to weigh a total of approximately 5.00 - 8.00 carats, as gauged in the mounting. Onyx in overall good condition, with some chips and scratches. Signs of normal wear to the metal. Pearls later added, of slightly cream to light cream body colour, partly with rosé and green overtones; for further details on the pearl, please refer to the SSEF report. In very good condition. Gross weight approximately 23 grams. Pouch signed Cartier.
"In response to your inquiry, we are pleased to provide you with a general report of the condition of the property described above. Please note that colour, clarity and weight of gemstones are statements of opinion only and not statements of fact by Sotheby's. We do not guarantee, and are not responsible for any certificate from a gemological laboratory that may accompany the property. We do not guarantee that watches are in working order. Prospective buyers should inspect each lot to satisfy themselves as to condition and must understand that any statement made by Sotheby's is merely a subjective, qualified opinion. Prospective buyers should also refer to refer to any Important Notices regarding this sale, which are printed in the Sale Catalogue, in particular to the Notice regarding the treatment and condition of gemstones.
NOTWITHSTANDING THIS REPORT OR ANY DISCUSSIONS CONCERNING A LOT, ALL LOTS ARE OFFERED AND SOLD "AS IS" IN ACCORDANCE WITH THE CONDITIONS OF BUSINESS PRINTED IN THE SALE CATALOGUE."

Jeanne Toussaint, the enlightened director of Haute Joaillerie at Cartier between 1933 and 1970, affectionately called “la Panthère” by Louis Cartier, was responsible for the evolution of the panther motif, present in Cartier production since 1914, into the three dimensional creations loved and made fashionable by the Duchess of Windsor. Following the success of the first examples created for the Duchess and relying on the design skills of the brilliant Pierre Lemarchand, Toussaint oversaw the production of a series of beautiful and varied 'Great Cat' jewels for the international set. Daisy Fellowes, Princess Nina Aga Khan and Barbara Hutton are just a few of the style icons who fell under the spell of Cartier's tigers and panthers in the 1950s and 1960s.

The Duchess of Windsor fell in love with the ‘Great Cat’ jewels, and she commissioned the first three-dimensional panther jewel in 1948, a cabochon emerald and gold brooch. One year later, she ordered the iconic sapphire panther brooch with a pavé-set panther perched atop a cabochon sapphire weighing more than 152 carats. After ordering several more jewels of panther design, the Duchess also looked into other ‘Great Cat’ motifs from the Cartier menagerie. In 1954, she purchased a pair of lorgnettes in the form of a tiger, in 1956 a tiger bracelet, and in 1959 a clip of similar design set with yellow diamonds and onyx.