Rare Gem Set and Diamond Pendent Necklace, Mauboussin

The pendant designed as a flower vase, set with baguette, circular- and single-cut diamonds, embellished with sapphires, rubies and emeralds, accented by black enamel, suspended from a link necklace of similar design, the diamonds weighing approximately 18.00 carats in total, mounted in platinum, unsigned, numbered, pendant with French assay and maker's marks, necklace with French assay marks, 1929 composite, pendant with later-added brooch pin fitting, necklace can be detached to be shortened and worn as four bracelets, necklace and bracelets lengths approximately 700, 175, 170, 170 and 165mm respectively, fitted case stamped Mauboussin.

Both pendant and necklace are unsigned. Pendant numbered 94735, with French maker's and assay marks for platinum. Carved rubies of medium deep orangy red; carved sapphires of violetish blue colour, medium strong to dark saturation, with one small patch of pale colour; and fluted emeralds of medium green; all with typical surface reaching inclusions and some are orangy brown colour, with minor chips, nicks and abrasions. Diamonds estimated to weigh approximately 9.00 carats in total, about E to G colour, VS to SI clarity, as gauged and graded in the mount.Necklace numbered 94649, with French assay marks for platinum. Carved rubies orangy red to purplish red colour, of medium deep to dark saturation, some are semi-opaque; fluted emeralds green of medium light to medium saturation; all with typical surface reaching inclusions and some are orangy brown colour, with minor chips and abrasions, some rubies with minor cavities. Calibré-cut rubies of pinkish to purplish red colour, medium to medium strong saturation; calibré-cut sapphires blue of medium saturation; calibré-cut emeralds green of medium light to medium saturation; all with minor to moderate typical inclusions and some are surface reaching, with some nicks, abrasions and tiny chips. Diamonds estimated to weigh about 9.00 carats in total, about H to I colour, VS to SI clarity, as gauged and graded in the mount.Signs of normal wear to the metal commensurate with age. Brooch fitting is possibly later addition. Necklace with some evidence of solder marks and reworked, two carved rubies are probably later addition and set in gold. Overall in good condition. Fitted case stamped Mauboussin.
In response to your inquiry, we are pleased to provide you with a general report of the condition of the property described above. Since we are not professional conservators or restorers, we urge you to consult with a restorer or conservator of your choice who will be better able to provide a detailed, professional report. Prospective buyers should inspect each lot to satisfy themselves as to condition and must understand that any statement made by Sotheby's is merely a subjective qualified opinion. Illustrations in the catalogue may not be actual size. Prospective purchasers are reminded that, unless the catalogue description specifically states that a stone is natural, we have assumed that some form of treatment may have been used and that such treatment may not be permanent. Our presale estimates reflect this assumption.Certificates of Authenticity: Various manufacturers may not issue certificates of authenticity upon request. Sotheby's is not under an obligation to furnish the purchaser with a certificate of authenticity from the manufacturer at any time. Unless the requirements for a rescission of the sale under the Terms of Guarantee are satisfied, the failure of a manufacturer to issue a certificate will not constitute grounds to rescind the sale. Gemological Certificates and Reports: References in the catalogue descriptions to certificates or reports issued by gemological laboratories are provided only for the information of bidders, and Sotheby's does not guarantee and accepts no responsibility for the accuracy, terms or information contained in such certificates or reports. Please also note that laboratories may differ in their assessment of a gemstone (including its origin and presence, type and extent of treatments) and their certificates or reports may contain different results.NOTWITHSTANDING THIS REPORT OR ANY DISCUSSIONS CONCERNING CONDITION OF A LOT, ALL LOTS ARE OFFERED AND SOLD "AS IS" IN ACCORDANCE WITH THE CONDITIONS OF SALE PRINTED IN THE CATALOGUE.

Accompanied by two Mauboussin authenticity certificates by Marguerite de Cerval.
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French Chic

Established by George Mauboussin in late 19^th century Paris, France, Maison Mauboussin won many awards in the 1920's for its innovative creations which boasted legibility of design, clear bold lines and a proclivity towards geometric patterns, including receiving the Legion of Honour and Grand Prize at the 1925 Exposition des Art Décoratifs in Paris.

Following the First World War, fashion changed radically. Necklaces were longer; the sautoir was very sought after by the élégantes of the 1920s, who wore long necklaces often supporting a pendant, and paired with two or three bracelets. The fascination with the Far East also drew inspiration to use more coloured gemstones, in the form of leaves, foliate motifs or exotic fruits, highlighted with diamonds and black enamel or onyx.

Between 1928 and 1931, Mauboussin held three themed exhibitions – Rubies, Emeralds and Diamonds. These exhibitions brought the Maison tremendous publicity, as well as many elite clients, including European royalty and Hollywood legends, Marlene Dietrich and Greta Garbo.

The present pendent necklace is a very fine example of this innovative look, perfectly demonstrating how Mauboussin participated in this style revolution. Set with carved gemstones, the long sautoir can be separated into four bracelets with a detachable pendant of giardinetto motif. Designed in 1929, this piece embodies the archetypal designs of the era.