Gem-Set 'Blackamoor' Brooch, Verdura

Set with a carved onyx head, a rubellite body (the rubellite later added), his outfit decorated with round diamonds, embellished with seed pearl ear pendants and a necklace supporting a briolette diamond, his hand and dagger applied with white and black enamel and round diamonds of yellow hue, the turban highlighted by cultured pearls and round near-colorless diamonds, the textured gold falcon decorated with blue enamel and a carved ruby feather, signed Verdura, with workshop mark, one small diamond missing.

 

In good condition, with one very small diamond missing from the top of the aigrette, atop the turban, and some minor enamel loss and repair. Signed Verdura. With workshop mark CG. Stamped 18K and Plat for 18 karat gold and platinum. The gold with very minor surface scratches commensurate with light wear. The onyx head in very good condition. The cushion-shaped rubellite measuring approximately 24.40 x 18.11 x 14.70 mm, weighing approximately 43.00 carats, is a medium to medium-deep purplish pink color, slightly to moderately included. The rubellite was later added. The near colorless diamonds, estimated to weigh a total of approximately 5.75 carats (including the briolette weighing approximately 1.25 carats), are approximately H-J color, VS-SI clarity; the briolette diamond is approximately K color, I clarity. The round diamonds on the dagger handle are of medium yellow hue. The largest cultured pearl bead is approximately 3.8 mm. The pearls are of silvery white to white body color, the majority with moderate rose overtones, and good skin and luster. The white enamel on the hand shows evidence of repair under close inspection. The black enamel on the dagger with one small area of loss visible under close inspection. The deep blue enamel on the falcon head is in very good condition. The carved ruby feather is medium-light purplish pink, heavily included with surface-reaching inclusions predominantly to the reverse, visible under close inspection. Dimensions approximately 3½ x 2 inches. Bearing a nice heft with gross weight approximately 69 dwts. Please note that the diamonds of yellow hue have not been tested for natural origin of color.
In response to your inquiry, we are pleased to provide you with a general report of the condition of the property described above. Since we are not professional conservators or restorers, we urge you to consult with a restorer or conservator of your choice who will be better able to provide a detailed, professional report. Prospective buyers should inspect each lot to satisfy themselves as to condition and must understand that any statement made by Sotheby's is merely a subjective qualified opinion. Illustrations in the catalogue may not be actual size. Prospective purchasers are reminded that, unless the catalogue description specifically states that a stone is natural, we have assumed that some form of treatment may have been used and that such treatment may not be permanent. Our presale estimates reflect this assumption.Certificates of Authenticity: Various manufacturers may not issue certificates of authenticity upon request. Sotheby's is not under an obligation to furnish the purchaser with a certificate of authenticity from the manufacturer at any time. Unless the requirements for a rescission of the sale under the Terms of Guarantee are satisfied, the failure of a manufacturer to issue a certificate will not constitute grounds to rescind the sale. Gemological Certificates and Reports: References in the catalogue descriptions to certificates or reports issued by gemological laboratories are provided only for the information of bidders, and Sotheby's does not guarantee and accepts no responsibility for the accuracy, terms or information contained in such certificates or reports. Please also note that laboratories may differ in their assessment of a gemstone (including its origin and presence, type and extent of treatments) and their certificates or reports may contain different results.NOTWITHSTANDING THIS REPORT OR ANY DISCUSSIONS CONCERNING CONDITION OF A LOT, ALL LOTS ARE OFFERED AND SOLD "AS IS" IN ACCORDANCE WITH THE CONDITIONS OF SALE PRINTED IN THE CATALOGUE.

Please note that the diamonds of yellow hue have not been tested for natural origin of color.

For a brooch of similar design, see Verdura: The Life and Work of a Master Jeweler by Patricia Corbett, page 32; a brooch of similar design is also illustrated on page 164 of the same book.