Gem set and diamond demi-parure, Masenza, 1950s

Comprising: a pair of ear clips and three brooches, set with various gemstones including rubies, citrines, emeralds and diamonds, accompanied by a necklace fitting, inner circumference approximately 380mm, signed Masenza.

Published in G.Folchini Grassetto, Antologia di Arte Orafa, Contemporanea, Padova 1989. Cf: Sotheby’s Milan November 1997, Lot 311, for a similar necklace.

Larger brooch signed in full Masenza-Roma to reverse, two smaller brooches possibly with replacement brooch pin catches. Minor abrasions through age and wear, overall good condition. Stones bright and lively, emeralds medium green with characteristic inclusions, ruby medium red, good clarity. Necklace fitting stamped 750 near clasp for 18 carat gold, weight approximately 16 grams.
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In 1946 Afro Libio joined what was later to be called the “Schoole of Rome”, where Masenza offered a group of artists the use of his workshop to experiment with their designs. This cultural operation sprang from a very particular idea: to create unique ideas and to break with the monotony of mass production which in his view diminished artistic value. Objects were made in molds, so that their value for the most part was the weight of gold they contained. 

Despite initial difficulties with this experiment the artists received their reward in the form of the first exhibition held in Milan at the famous Galleria del Milione in October 1949, which was a great success. Afro jewels date back to 1946 but this necklace belongs to the 1950s when Afro made the sketch illustrated here.