Lot 374
  • 374

AN IMPERIAL OFFICER'S CEREMONIAL ARMOR AND HELMET LATE QING DYNASTY

Estimate
20,000 - 30,000 USD
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Description

  • cotton, silk, brass
comprising a waist-length brass-studded, cotton-padded, yellow and black shan pattern silk jacket with tapered sleeves ending in flaring cuffs, embroidered with a single central roundel of confronting dragons, the matching wrap-around skirt in three sections, two with a pair of embroidered dragon roundels joined by a third panel with two dragon heads of gold metal-wrapped thread in relief, the shoulder plates to match but bordered with pierced gilt-metal dragon-decorated appliques, with matching parcel-gilt iron helmet (7)

Provenance

Collection of Serafino Manuse (1923-2013), California, acquired in the 1950s, and thence by descent.

Condition

There is noticeable loss and wear to the black border trim overall. There are some loose threads, staining to the blue backing and a small tear along the seam of the center skirt. Some of the loops and ends needed to attach one section to another are missing. The metal disc guard is missing. Four small apertures to the top of the helmet indicate that there may have been additional embellishments that are now missing. The armor with expected wear overall.
In response to your inquiry, we are pleased to provide you with a general report of the condition of the property described above. Since we are not professional conservators or restorers, we urge you to consult with a restorer or conservator of your choice who will be better able to provide a detailed, professional report. Prospective buyers should inspect each lot to satisfy themselves as to condition and must understand that any statement made by Sotheby's is merely a subjective qualified opinion.
NOTWITHSTANDING THIS REPORT OR ANY DISCUSSIONS CONCERNING CONDITION OF A LOT, ALL LOTS ARE OFFERED AND SOLD "AS IS" IN ACCORDANCE WITH THE CONDITIONS OF SALE PRINTED IN THE CATALOGUE.

Catalogue Note

A nearly identical example is illustrated in Robert D. Jacobsen, Imperial Silk, Ch'Ing Dynasty Textiles in the Minneapolis Institute of Arts, vol. I, Minneapolis, 2000, cat. no. 137 where the author notes, "The gold brocade ground fabric suggests this uniform would have belonged to a member of the Imperial Guard assigned to protect the Forbidden City." According to  Valerie M. Garrett in Chinese Clothing: An Illustrated Guide, Oxford, 1994, p. 122, ceremonial suits of armor, "were made in the Imperial workshops in Hangzhou, and when not worn were stored at the Western Gate of the Forbidden City."

A similar uniform sold in our London rooms 13th November 2002, lot 17; another in these rooms 23rd March 2004, lot 554; and a third sold in our London rooms, 7th November 2007, lot 487.