Elegant and Rare Platinum, Aquamarine, Sapphire and Diamond Sautoir, Cartier, London

The pendant suspending three variously-cut aquamarines, the rectangular-shaped aquamarine weighing approximately 29.00 carats, supporting an octagonal-shaped aquamarine weighing approximately 54.20 carats, terminating in a pear-shaped biolette-cut aquamarine drop weighing approximately 59.30 carats, spaced by geometric links decorated with cabochon sapphires weighing approximately 5.30 carats, completed by the original silk cord applied with diamond-set accents, the round and single-cut diamonds weighing approximately 1.15 carats, necklace length 30 5/8 inches, pendant length 4¼ inches, unsigned; 1929.

In very good condition with gentle surface wear to the mounting. The wheat-colored cord appears to be original and is very lightly frayed but clean. The medium-light very slightly greenish blue aquamarines are well-matched for color and eye-clean; minute abrasions to the briolette and modified emerald-cut. The sapphires are a well saturated, deep blue; eye-clean and a high polish. The single- and round-cut diamonds are approximately G-H color, VS clarity; the rose-cut diamonds are decorative in quality. The articulated pendant measures approximately 5 1/4 inches from the caps to the tip of the briolette. Unsigned. Accompanied by Certificate of Authenticity No. GE2009-107 from Cartier stating that the sautoir is 'Cartier London, 1929.'
In response to your inquiry, we are pleased to provide you with a general report of the condition of the property described above. Since we are not professional conservators or restorers, we urge you to consult with a restorer or conservator of your choice who will be better able to provide a detailed, professional report. Prospective buyers should inspect each lot to satisfy themselves as to condition and must understand that any statement made by Sotheby's is merely a subjective qualified opinion. Illustrations in the catalogue may not be actual size. Prospective purchasers are reminded that, unless the catalogue description specifically states that a stone is natural, we have assumed that some form of treatment may have been used and that such treatment may not be permanent. Our presale estimates reflect this assumption.
NOTWITHSTANDING THIS REPORT OR ANY DISCUSSIONS CONCERNING CONDITION OF A LOT, ALL LOTS ARE OFFERED AND SOLD "AS IS" IN ACCORDANCE WITH THE CONDITIONS OF SALE PRINTED IN THE CATALOGUE.

Accompanied by Certificate of Authenticity No. GE2009-107 from Cartier stating that the sautoir is 'Cartier London, 1929.'

A December 1928 Vogue article titled Fashion: A Jewels Song From Paris exclaimed that, ‘A woman of a clearly exotic type may exaggerate the number, the richness, and the originality of her jewels. Another, whose profile is classic, will wear only diamonds mounted with simple severity.’ At the time that this sautoir was created by Cartier London, the colorful, Eastern-inspired jewels of the 1920s were giving way to the bold, exclusively diamond-encrusted pieces of the 1930s.

As this was a period when it was the changing fashions and roles of women that dictated changing trends and tastes, it is important to consider the woman who would have worn this piece. Her independence is illustrated by the bold and rare choice of aquamarine, and the ease with which the piece may be worn; the symmetrical design of the pendant and the flexible cord from which it hangs suggests the owner donned the columnar fashions of the day, the pendant designed to move freely while enjoying the new sounds of jazz; the diamond-set clasp suggests she likely had the fashionable bob-style haircut of the day, allowing observers to get a last bit of sparkle as they took a second look. It is also possible, due to the unique stone choice and design of the sautoir, that this was specially commissioned to adorn a particular frock, perhaps a custom creation by Coco Chanel.

Aquamarine jewels by Cartier are especially rare, and only a few known examples in the Cartier Collection exist. The present lot joins those designs created for the coronation of King George VI and for Elsie de Wolfe in illustrating the design firm’s strength in using the ocean-hued stone to create striking jewels, perfect in balance and symmetry.