18 Karat Gold, Molded Glass and Enamel Ring, René Lalique, France

Designed as a greenish blue glass face of Medusa, with blue and green enamel scales applied to the snake, gross weight approximately 10 dwts, size 8, signed Lalique, with French maker's mark; circa 1900.

In good condition with general surface wear to the gold. The molded glass and enamel work remaining in good condition with several cells presenting minor enamel loss and the lowermost cell on the serpent's tail with exposed ground. The signature in block capital letters. Bearing a nice weight.
In response to your inquiry, we are pleased to provide you with a general report of the condition of the property described above. Since we are not professional conservators or restorers, we urge you to consult with a restorer or conservator of your choice who will be better able to provide a detailed, professional report. Prospective buyers should inspect each lot to satisfy themselves as to condition and must understand that any statement made by Sotheby's is merely a subjective qualified opinion. Illustrations in the catalogue may not be actual size. Prospective purchasers are reminded that, unless the catalogue description specifically states that a stone is natural, we have assumed that some form of treatment may have been used and that such treatment may not be permanent. Our presale estimates reflect this assumption.Certificates of Authenticity: Various manufacturers may not issue certificates of authenticity upon request. Sotheby's is not under an obligation to furnish the purchaser with a certificate of authenticity from the manufacturer at any time. Unless the requirements for a rescission of the sale under the Terms of Guarantee are satisfied, the failure of a manufacturer to issue a certificate will not constitute grounds to rescind the sale. Gemological Certificates and Reports: References in the catalogue descriptions to certificates or reports issued by gemological laboratories are provided only for the information of bidders, and Sotheby's does not guarantee and accepts no responsibility for the accuracy, terms or information contained in such certificates or reports. Please also note that laboratories may differ in their assessment of a gemstone (including its origin and presence, type and extent of treatments) and their certificates or reports may contain different results.NOTWITHSTANDING THIS REPORT OR ANY DISCUSSIONS CONCERNING CONDITION OF A LOT, ALL LOTS ARE OFFERED AND SOLD "AS IS" IN ACCORDANCE WITH THE CONDITIONS OF SALE PRINTED IN THE CATALOGUE.

The Art Nouveau style of jewelry (1895-1910) adopted the use of curved or agitated lines, and usually depicted the more menacing or sensual sides of nature, like the tendril of a vine. René Lalique (1860-1945) established himself as one of the leading Art Nouveau designers. He worked as a freelance jeweler for firms like Boucheron and Maison Vever until he started his own eponymous business in 1887. Lalique had the ability to deftly manipulate gold to a sculptural effect. He admired the work of the French sculptor Auguste Rodin (1840-1917) whose pieces were dramatic and displayed a sense of movement.

Sarah Bernhardt (1844-1923), was a French actress and frequent patron of Lalique’s work. In 1894, she reprised her role as Theodora, the Empress of Byzantine. That same year, Lalique sketched her character with a headdress of twisted snakes poised to strike, reminiscent of Medusa. Although this design was never realized, it inspired a large bodice ornament created circa 1898 to 1899 composed of nine coiled snakes with their mouths rendered in blue, green and black enamel. A similar piece, with long strands of baroque pearls suspended from eight of the nine snake’s mouths, was shown at the 1900 Paris Exposition Universelle and at the Turin World’s Fair in 1902. The ring offered here features a blue glass portrait of Medusa framed by a curving snake, with textured gold scales accented by green and blue enamel. This ring references Lalique’s original sketch inspired by Theodora.