Gem set and diamond brooch, circa 1920

Of garland design, set with carved emeralds, rubies and sapphires and circular-cut, baguette and marquise-shaped diamonds, French assay and maker's marks for Henri Picq.  

Rubies of Burmese origin cannot be imported into the US; this piece may contain a ruby of Burmese origin and therefore may not be able to be imported into the US. Certification of non-Burmese origin is required before the import of rubies into the US. Please see our Important Notices and contact the jewellery department for further information. French assay marks for platinum. Maker's marks for Henri Picq. Carved coloured stones with good saturation, typical inclusions visible to naked eye. Estimated total diamond weight approximately 3.50 - 5.50 carats, estimated colour H-J, estimated clarity VS on average, a few stones SI. In very good condition.
"In response to your inquiry, we are pleased to provide you with a general report of the condition of the property described above. Please note that colour, clarity and weight of gemstones are statements of opinion only and not statements of fact by Sotheby's. We do not guarantee, and are not responsible for any certificate from a gemological laboratory that may accompany the property. We do not guarantee that watches are in working order. Prospective buyers should inspect each lot to satisfy themselves as to condition and must understand that any statement made by Sotheby's is merely a subjective, qualified opinion. Prospective buyers should also refer to refer to any Important Notices regarding this sale, which are printed in the Sale Catalogue, in particular to the Notice regarding the treatment and condition of gemstones and to the Notice regarding import of Burmese jadeite and rubies into the US.
NOTWITHSTANDING THIS REPORT OR ANY DISCUSSIONS CONCERNING A LOT, ALL LOTS ARE OFFERED AND SOLD "AS IS" IN ACCORDANCE WITH THE CONDITIONS OF BUSINESS PRINTED IN THE SALE CATALOGUE."

Henri Picq’s workshop in the Marais was responsible, from the early years of the 20^th century through into the late 1920s, for some of the most iconic designs of the period. Working largely, though not exclusively, for Cartier, they pioneered the use of novel materials and executed some of Cartier’s most avant-garde designs. It was Picq, for example, who produced the first of the steel and diamond diadems of the 1910s. This garland brooch is of what has later become known as ‘tutti frutti’ design. Picq was responsible for making the very first of Cartier’s ‘tutti frutti’ jewels, at the time described simply as ‘pierres de couleur’, which was a bracelet designed for the Paris Exposition Universelle in 1925.

Cf: Hans Nadelhoffer, Cartier, London, 2007, p.76

Cf: Judy Rudoe, Cartier, 1900-1939, British Museum, October 1997, Cat. 28 and 155-7