Gold, Platinum-Topped Gold, Pink Tourmaline and Diamond Brooch, Designed by Paulding Farnham for Tiffany & Co.

The openwork flowerhead centering a round pink tourmaline weighing approximately 1.70 carats, accented by 20 oval-shaped pink tourmalines weighing approximately 9.10 carats, further set with old European-cut diamonds weighing approximately 2.40 carats, gross weight approximately 15 dwts, signed Tiffany & Co., with scratch number 845; circa 1900; fitted with retractable pendant loop.

In very good condition considering the age of the piece. The tourmalines are bright and range from medium-light to medium pink to purplish pink, lightly to moderately included with some examples of abrasions, surface-reaching inclusions and chips at the girdle, which are only visible under close inspection. The diamonds are approximately G-H color, predominantly VS clarity. Signed on an applied plaque on the reverse. Dimensions of brooch approximately 1 7/8 by 1 7/8 inches. Fitted with a safety latch.
In response to your inquiry, we are pleased to provide you with a general report of the condition of the property described above. Since we are not professional conservators or restorers, we urge you to consult with a restorer or conservator of your choice who will be better able to provide a detailed, professional report. Prospective buyers should inspect each lot to satisfy themselves as to condition and must understand that any statement made by Sotheby's is merely a subjective qualified opinion. Illustrations in the catalogue may not be actual size. Prospective purchasers are reminded that, unless the catalogue description specifically states that a stone is natural, we have assumed that some form of treatment may have been used and that such treatment may not be permanent. Our presale estimates reflect this assumption.
NOTWITHSTANDING THIS REPORT OR ANY DISCUSSIONS CONCERNING CONDITION OF A LOT, ALL LOTS ARE OFFERED AND SOLD "AS IS" IN ACCORDANCE WITH THE CONDITIONS OF SALE PRINTED IN THE CATALOGUE.

The name, Tiffany, conjures visions of diamonds, emeralds, rubies, sapphires, and pearls.  While that may be true today, one hundred and twenty-five years ago, the firm was offering a plethora of colored gemstones from mines in the United States sourced by the gemologist, George Frederick Kunz, who traveled extensively throughout the country in search of rare and unusual specimens.  One gemstone that fascinated him was the tourmaline that had been discovered in Maine in 1822.  A little over fifty years later, Kunz offered Charles Tiffany a brilliant green stone that was followed by superb pink examples. 

Tiffany’s was proud to offer the public rare and interesting gemstones.  The first showing of pink tourmalines occurred when the firm displayed a selection from Maine at the 1889 Exposition Universelle in Paris and, then, again at the 1900 Exposition in the same city.  Perhaps the two most important jewels with pink tourmalines Tiffany exhibited were a wild rose brooch set with sixty-two pink tourmalines in the 1900 Exposition and a life-sized pink tourmaline carnation brooch at the 1901 Pan-American Exposition in Buffalo.

The pink tourmalines Tiffany offered in their jewelry designs were from Maine.  These deposits tend to produce crystals in raspberry pink-red such as the gemstones in this brooch, one of largest pink tourmaline brooches from Tiffany’s extant.  The pink tourmalines are perfectly matched, most likely cut from the same rough stone.  The pink palette is complemented with diamonds that would have sparkled in gas lit rooms and is a superb example of the jewelry Tiffany offered their clientele at the turn of the twentieth century.

 - Janet Zapata, Specialist in Jewelry and American Silver