Lot 1762
  • 1762

Impressive and Important Ruby and Diamond Ring, Mounted by Cartier

Estimate
50,000,000 - 60,000,000 HKD
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Description

  • ruby, platinum, diamond
Centring on an oval ruby weighing 29.62 carats, to a stylised mount set with brilliant-cut diamonds together weighing approximately 2.50 carats, mounted in platinum, signed MT. Cartier and numbered SU4844. Ring size: 5¼

Condition

Colour and Clarity: According to both Gübelin and AGL reports, the ruby is natural, of Burmese (Mogok) origin, with no indications of heating and clarity enhancement. Also accompanied by an AGL Jewelfolio and letter, stating that "weighing an impressive nearly 30 carats, this ruby is in a weight class that is very exclusive for this source (Burma). Furthermore, this gem possesses a richly saturated, homogeneous color that is typical of fine quality rubies from this famous locale...... This exceptional ruby is set in a ring from one of the world's most prestigious jewelry houses: Cartier. A gem quality unheated Burmese ruby of 29.62 cts is extraordinary rare and distinguishes this gem as being uniquely significant." Please refer to the reports, Jewelfolio and letter for details. In our opinion, the ruby is of strong red colour, eye clean. Upon 10x loupe, there are natural crystal and fingerprint inclusions, with a few tiny surface pits, not seen to naked eyes. Diamonds are about E to F colours, VVS to VS clarity. Signed MT Cartier and numbered to the shank, with platinum mark. Condition: Platinum ring mount, signs of wear and fine scratches to the shank, otherwise in very good condition. IMPORTANT NOTICE: Please note that jadeite and rubies of Burmese origin and articles of jewellery containing jadeite or rubies of Burmese origin all less than 100 years old may not be imported into the US. The purchaser's inability to import any item into the U.S. or any other country as a result of these or other restrictions shall not justify cancellation or rescission of the sale or any delay in payment. Please check with the specialist department if you are uncertain as to whether a lot is subject to these import restrictions, or any other restrictions on importation or exportation
In response to your inquiry, we are pleased to provide you with a general report of the condition of the property described above. Since we are not professional conservators or restorers, we urge you to consult with a restorer or conservator of your choice who will be better able to provide a detailed, professional report. Prospective buyers should inspect each lot to satisfy themselves as to condition and must understand that any statement made by Sotheby's is merely a subjective qualified opinion. Illustrations in the catalogue may not be actual size. Prospective purchasers are reminded that, unless the catalogue description specifically states that a stone is natural, we have assumed that some form of treatment may have been used and that such treatment may not be permanent. Our presale estimates reflect this assumption.
NOTWITHSTANDING THIS REPORT OR ANY DISCUSSIONS CONCERNING CONDITION OF A LOT, ALL LOTS ARE OFFERED AND SOLD "AS IS" IN ACCORDANCE WITH THE CONDITIONS OF SALE PRINTED IN THE CATALOGUE.

Catalogue Note

Accompanied by Gübelin report numbered 13105228, dated 26 October 2013, stating that the 29.62 carat ruby is natural, of Burmese (Mogok) origin, with no indications of heating. Also accompanied by AGL report numbered CS 57161, dated 26 September 2013, stating that the 29.62 carat ruby is natural, of Burmese origin, with no indications of heating and clarity enhancement, and an AGL Jewelfolio and Letter stating that 'weighing an impressive nearly 30 carats, this ruby is in a weight class that is very exclusive for this source (Burma). Furthermore, this gem possesses a richly saturated, homogenous colour that is typical of fine quality rubies from this famous locale...This exceptional ruby is set in a ring from one of the world's most prestigious jewelry houses: Cartier. A gem-quality unheated Burmese ruby of 29.62 cts is extraordinary rare and distinguishes this gem as being uniquely significant.'
Also accompanied by a Cartier fitted box.

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Cartier in Crimson Shade

Ruby – a gemstone considered to be the world’s most valuable for thousands of years – holds a distinct place in the history of high jewellery. One of the most prestigious jewellery houses, Cartier, marked by countless innovative and iconic designs, started incorporating this red gemstone in their intricate pieces in the early 20th century, mainly as calibré-cut rubies and beads. It was in the 1910s and 1920s, when Jacque Cartier made his first voyage to India and Maharaja of Patiala handed Cartier several thousand stones to reset, that rubies first take on a place of honour in the maison’s high jewellery, particularly in the Indian-influenced design and art deco pieces. Over the years, rubies mounted on exquisite Cartier jewelleries have grown in magnitudes and qualities, often assuming prominent positions in the maison’s finest designs. 

In The Six Voyages, published in 1676, Jean-Baptiste Tavernier wrote, “When a ruby exceeds six carats and is perfect, it is sold for whatever it is asked for.” Centuries have passed since then and rubies of gem-quality are still of great rarity, if not rarer than before. Lot 1762 is a truly exceptional ring graced by the pedigree of Cartier, as well as the fabled Mogok Valley mines in Burmese where the best rubies in the world are unearthed. The only similar ring to this is The Carmen Lúcia Burmese Ruby Ring currently exhibition at the Smithsonian National Natural History Museum, which weighs 23.10 carats. The museum states, “While sapphire, emerald and diamond gems weighing hundreds of carats exist, high-quality Burmese rubies larger than 20 carats are exceedingly rare.” The Cartier ring to be offered is uniquely significant for the Mogok ruby’s impressive weight of 29.62 carats, combined with a homogeneous and richly saturated colour, this piece belongs to an exclusive crimson realm of fabled origin and supreme artistry.