Pair of rare and attractive enamel, opalescent glass and diamond bracelets, René Lalique, circa 1900

Each composed of five plaques of foliate and floral design connected by cushion-shaped diamonds; each motif decorated with four moulded opalescent glass cornflowers, the leaves and stems in green and blue enamel ending with natural pearls, the centre set with a cushion-shaped diamond; length approximately 172mm, each signed Lalique, the bracelets can be worn together as a choker, length approximately 345mm, one pearl cultured, repairs to the back, enamel slightly imperfect and repaired in places.

Cf.: Sigrid Barten, René Lalique, Schmuck und Objets d'Art. 1890-1910, Bonn, 1989, pg. 455, ill. 1271,2 for a reproduction of the original sketch of the bracelet.

Cf.: Vivienne Becker, The Jewellery of René Lalique, London, 1987.

Cf.: Marc and Marie-Claude Lalique, Lalique par Lalique, Paris, 1977.

Accompanied by GIA report no. 2173057989, stating that nineteen pearls measuring from approximately 4.30 to 5.24 mm, were found to be natural, saltwater, and one was found to be cultured. Each bracelet signed Lalique on the tongue of the clasp. Pearls of white body colour, with good skin and lustre. Cornflower glass motifs with chips, scratches, a few with evidence of restorations. Lack of enamel on leaf and stem motifs. Diamonds estimated to weigh a total of approximately 8.00 - 10.00 carats, on average H-J colour, VS-SI clarity, as gauged and graded in the mounting. Clasps secure, safety chains. Signs of wear to the metal consistent with use, a few prongs with evidence of repairs, traces of glue under the glass motifs and on the back of the bracelets. Total gross weight approximately 152 grams.
"In response to your inquiry, we are pleased to provide you with a general report of the condition of the property described above. Please note that colour, clarity and weight of gemstones are statements of opinion only and not statements of fact by Sotheby's. We do not guarantee, and are not responsible for any certificate from a gemological laboratory that may accompany the property. We do not guarantee that watches are in working order. Prospective buyers should inspect each lot to satisfy themselves as to condition and must understand that any statement made by Sotheby's is merely a subjective, qualified opinion. Prospective buyers should also refer to refer to any Important Notices regarding this sale, which are printed in the Sale Catalogue, in particular to the Notice regarding the treatment and condition of gemstones and to the Notice regarding import of Burmese jadeite and rubies into the US.
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Leader of the Art Nouveau movement and instigator of an entirely new approach to jewellery, René Lalique (1860-1945) started as an apprentice in 1876 at Louis Aucoc, a renowned Parisian silversmith and jeweller. He worked then as a designer for different jewellery houses and moved in 1890 to 20 rue Thérèse where he began his experiments with glass. By the 1890s, Lalique was using more motifs from nature, concentrating on unusual aspects of plants and flowers. He looked at the techniques from other areas of the decorative arts, such as glass, and introduced them into jewellery. Indeed, he dared to mix a valueless material with precious metal and gems. These moulded pieces were often repeated, as in this example. The Exposition Universelle in 1900 was the pinnacle of Lalique's success. He was hailed by art critics as the renovator and master of modern French jewellery; he won a Grand Prix and was awarded the rosette of the Légion d'Honneur. During a 1905 exhibition, Lalique was given full credit for his revolutionary approach to jewel design which had changed the course of jewellery and had "freed us from the tyranny of the diamond" (The Studio International, August 1905).