Lot 425
  • 425

Platinum, 18 Karat Gold, Colored Stone and Diamond 'Oiseau de Paradis' Brooch, Schlumberger for Tiffany & Co., France

Estimate
150,000 - 250,000 USD
bidding is closed

Description

  • Schlumberger for Tiffany & Co.
  • platinum, gold, coored stone, diamond
The fantastical bird with a head that swivels, the torso set with numerous emerald-cut amethysts, oval and pear-shaped sapphires, accented by cabochon emeralds, the tail set with square-cut aquamarines, the head set with variously-cut yellow beryls and two cabochon ruby eyes, accented throughout with numerous round diamonds weighing approximately 3.80 carats, completed by a polished gold beak and a swirled plume on the crown, gross weight approximately 70 dwts, signed Tiffany Schlumberger, Made in France, with scratch number 611 714; circa 1963.

Literature

The Jewels of Schlumberger by Chantal Bizot, Marie-Noel de Gary and Evelyne Posseme, pencil sketch on page 53 and is currently with the Musée des Arts Décoratifs, Paris.

Tiffany in Fashion by John Loring, page 130.

Tiffany Colored Gems by John Loring, page 269.

Tiffany's 20th Century: Portrait of American Style by John Loring, pages 172 and 133.

Condition

In good condition. One screw missing, visible on reverse, that causes one of the aquamarine sections to move slightly. The lively amethysts are a medium violetish purple, eye-clean to lightly included. The sapphires are a medium to medium deep slightly violetish blue, eye-clean to lightly included. The emeralds are a medium light bluish green, moderately to heavily included, with several examples bearing surface-reaching inclusions. The aquamarines are a medium to medium-light blue, eye-clean with four examples bearing small chips visible only under magnification. The lively yellow beryls are a medium brownish yellow, eye-clean. The ruby eyes are decorative in quality. The diamonds are approximately F-H color, VVS-VS clarity. Signed on applied plaques on the reverse. The head swivels to allow for different directions of wear. With an indistinct mark on the underside of one of the sapphire "tails." Whimsical and highly sculptural. Length approximately 4 1/2 inches, tail feathers measure approximately 3 inches across.
In response to your inquiry, we are pleased to provide you with a general report of the condition of the property described above. Since we are not professional conservators or restorers, we urge you to consult with a restorer or conservator of your choice who will be better able to provide a detailed, professional report. Prospective buyers should inspect each lot to satisfy themselves as to condition and must understand that any statement made by Sotheby's is merely a subjective qualified opinion. Illustrations in the catalogue may not be actual size. Prospective purchasers are reminded that, unless the catalogue description specifically states that a stone is natural, we have assumed that some form of treatment may have been used and that such treatment may not be permanent. Our presale estimates reflect this assumption.
NOTWITHSTANDING THIS REPORT OR ANY DISCUSSIONS CONCERNING CONDITION OF A LOT, ALL LOTS ARE OFFERED AND SOLD "AS IS" IN ACCORDANCE WITH THE CONDITIONS OF SALE PRINTED IN THE CATALOGUE.

Catalogue Note

“Some women want to look expensive, I would prefer to have them look precious." Jean Schlumberger, interview for the New York Journal American, March 23, 1956.

The oiseau has figured into Tiffany’s design vocabulary long throughout the firm’s history, beginning in the late 19th century and reaching a fanciful crescendo with the work of Jean Schlumberger.  Known to be more preoccupied with design and color than function and practicality, Schlumberger embraced an eccentric, larger-than-life aesthetic.  The bird form appeared in his jeweled menagerie as early as the late 1940s and was a recurring theme until the end of the 1970s.  The ‘Oiseau de Paradis’ brooch offered here is an exceptional example of the artist’s predilection for fantastical fauna.  In addition to artfully incorporating a variety of colored stones, the piece presents an intense kineticism:  the swiveling head supports a flourish of curling plumage leading down to a bombé breast and straight-as-arrows tail feathers.  As one of Schlumberger’s most dynamic and monumental brooches, it is a masterful marriage of bijou and objet.