An important diamond-set and enamelled gold parade necklace (Khanti), North India, circa 1850-75

comprised of brilliant, facet-cut diamonds set in gold with foil backing on flexible chains, the openwork design forming flowerheads, with a hanging pendant in the form of a stylised peacock, enamelled on the reverse in red, green, yellow, blue and white with foliate details on each setting, with a metal-thread string for attaching, in custom box

From a noble European collection

Diamonds: The World's Most Dazzling Exhibition, Natural History Museum, London, 9 July 2005-26 February 2006

Diamonds: The World's Most Dazzling Exhibition, Natural History Museum, London, 2005, p.30, no.19

In overall very good condition, the diamonds bright, some minor spots of dirt and rubbing to enamel consistent with age and use, some loose strings on attaching necklace, as viewed.
"In response to your inquiry, we are pleased to provide you with a general report of the condition of the property described above. Since we are not professional conservators or restorers, we urge you to consult with a restorer or conservator of your choice who will be better able to provide a detailed, professional report. Prospective buyers should inspect each lot to satisfy themselves as to condition and must understand that any statement made by Sotheby's is merely a subjective, qualified opinion. Prospective buyers should also refer to any Important Notices regarding this sale, which are printed in the Sale Catalogue.
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This exquisitely crafted necklace is set with more than one hundred brightly-cut diamonds and polychrome luminous enamel decoration on the reverse. The openwork design of flowerheads, geometric in form, remains nonetheless supple as they are set along flexible chains so that the necklace fits comfortably on the chest. The hanging pendant, in the form of a peacock, adds a three-dimensional element to the design as well as holding strong symbolic connotations of auspiciousness, wealth and beauty. Epitomising the Mughal aesthetic for luxury, the overall effect of this necklace is one of splendour and magnificence. Commissioned for a wealthy patron, each diamond was cut and foil-backed so as to bring out its maximum brilliance. The enamelling on the reverse is also of the highest quality, each panel within the rosettes featuring painted floral petals and leaves with finely combed details that add a sense of palpability.

A very similar necklace, attributed to nineteenth-century  North India was published in Krishnan and Kumar 1999, pp.154-5, no.223. Another comparable necklace is in the al-Thani collection (published in: Beyond Extravagance: A royal Collection of gems and jewels. ed. Amin Jaffer, pp.270-71, no.87). The present piece, which featured in the exhibition Diamonds: The world’s most dazzling exhibition, at the Natural History Museum in London between 2005 and 2006 as an example of the use of diamonds on Indian jewellery, represents an exceptional piece of museum-quality importance.