Naga Headdress, Probably Tangkhul Group, Nagaland, India

decorated with the large tail feathers of a Great Indian Hornbill (Buceros bicornis), smaller feathers from a Domestic Chicken (Gallus gallus), Domesticated Horse (Equus caballus) hair, the discs applied with red Kafferboom (Erythrina lysistemon) seeds and white Job's Tears (Coix lacryma-jobi) seeds.

Maureen Zarember, New York
Allan Stone, New York, acquired from the above on April 25, 1980 or June 4, 1982

Fragile but complete condition as shown in catalogue photograph. Small losses to hair, seeds, and feathers as shown in catalogue photograph. Some elements are dry and very fragile. Hide strips are dry.
In response to your inquiry, we are pleased to provide you with a general report of the condition of the property described above. Since we are not professional conservators or restorers, we urge you to consult with a restorer or conservator of your choice who will be better able to provide a detailed, professional report. Prospective buyers should inspect each lot to satisfy themselves as to condition and must understand that any statement made by Sotheby's is merely a subjective qualified opinion.
NOTWITHSTANDING THIS REPORT OR ANY DISCUSSIONS CONCERNING CONDITION OF A LOT, ALL LOTS ARE OFFERED AND SOLD "AS IS" IN ACCORDANCE WITH THE CONDITIONS OF SALE PRINTED IN THE CATALOGUE.

This magnificent headdress would have been worn by a Naga leader or chief.  Each of the adornments acts as indicator of earned status. The means of earning the right to wear these elements varied from clan to clan. According to Jacobs (1990: 108), the hornbill is a preeminently important bird for all Naga groups and hornbill feathers indicate high status achieved in one form or another. Amongst the Ao, one feather indicates one head taken whereas two feathers show that the wearer was the first to spear an enemy in a kill. Amongst the Sema a hornbill feather simply indicates warrior status, as is the case for the Rengma, the Konyak and the Kalyo-Kengyu.

For three closely related examples see one featured in a photograph taken in the early years of the 20th century by Lt. Colonel J. Shakespear, though lacking the hornbill feathers; a second in the National Handicrafts and Handlooms Museum, New Delhi (inv. no. "86/7110", published in Jain and Aggarwala 1989: 168); and a third, virtually identical to the offered lot and previously in the Stuart Cary Welch Collection, which was sold at Sotheby's London, May 31, 2011, lot 190.