GE1302

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Lot 563
  • 563

Amethyst and diamond demi-parure, mid-19th century

Estimate
50,000 - 80,000 CHF
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Description

  • amethyst, diamond, gold, silver, cultured pearl
Comprising: a necklace designed as a graduated series of oval amethysts each set within a frame of cushion-shaped and circular-cut diamonds, suspending a detachable amethyst and diamond pendant, length approximately 430mm, two later links to back of necklace, central jewel and pendant detachable and may be worn on later necklace composed of four rows of cultured pearls, length of shortest row approximately 355mm; and a pair of earrings similarly set, post fittings, originally part of the necklace, later set as earrings.

Provenance

原屬巴伐利亞王后薩克斯席德柏格豪森公主特蕾莎(1792-1854年),後傳與其子希臘國王巴伐利亞王子奧圖(1832-1862年)。奧圖國王與愛美莉亞王后奧登伯格公主(1818-1875年)膝下無子女,這些珠寶由國王之侄巴伐利亞王子盧德維格·斐迪南(1859-1949年)繼承,並傳予其後人。現稱本項鍊為愛美麗亞王后的項鍊。

Condition

Amethyst necklace mounted in silver and gold. All links with amethysts detectable. Amethysts overall well matched, one stone to the back of the necklace of stronger purple colour saturation, one to the front with a narrow window, few scratches and nicks, one amethyst with larger chip to the crown. Diamonds estimated to weigh a total of approximately 60.00 - 62.00 carats, on average of G-I colour (very few of a slightly more yellowish tint) and VS-I clarity, as gauged and graded in mounting. Cultured pearls of cream body colour, good lustre, minor blemishes and growth marks. Clasps secure, safety catches to either side. Signs of normal wear to the metal, scratches consistent with use. In good condition.
"In response to your inquiry, we are pleased to provide you with a general report of the condition of the property described above. Please note that colour, clarity and weight of gemstones are statements of opinion only and not statements of fact by Sotheby's. We do not guarantee, and are not responsible for any certificate from a gemological laboratory that may accompany the property. We do not guarantee that watches are in working order. Prospective buyers should inspect each lot to satisfy themselves as to condition and must understand that any statement made by Sotheby's is merely a subjective, qualified opinion. Prospective buyers should also refer to refer to any Important Notices regarding this sale, which are printed in the Sale Catalogue, in particular to the Notice regarding the treatment and condition of gemstones and to the Notice regarding import of Burmese jadeite and rubies into the US.
NOTWITHSTANDING THIS REPORT OR ANY DISCUSSIONS CONCERNING A LOT, ALL LOTS ARE OFFERED AND SOLD "AS IS" IN ACCORDANCE WITH THE CONDITIONS OF BUSINESS PRINTED IN THE SALE CATALOGUE."

Catalogue Note

紫色傳統上被認作皇室的代表色,因此百年以來紫水晶用以裝飾皇室珠寶。紫水晶在十九世紀中期到晚期極為風行,並在巴黎1889年萬國博覽會中展示。俄羅斯女皇凱薩琳大帝下令在Ural山區採集品質上佳的紫水晶,這些寶石白日為鮮艷的紫色,晚間則閃耀深紅的光輝。

史上多件重要紫水晶珠寶如下:

貝特福伯爵夫人曾配類似本拍品的項鍊,圖片可見Diana Scarisbrick所著Ancestral Jewels頁164

另一類似項鍊則曾於1993年5月蘇富比日內瓦珠寶拍賣上拍(拍品編號525)

其餘重要紫水晶珠寶迄今依然由瑞典王室成員如席薇亞女王與維多莉亞公主於公開場合配戴。