L13220

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Lot 286
  • 286

A 'Berber Futasi' Barber's apron, a 'Sinni' Tray cover and an embroidered quilt cover , Ottoman

Estimate
6,000 - 8,000 GBP
bidding is closed

Description

  • linen, silk, metal-thread
  • various measurements
comprising of a 'Sinni' tray cover, of almost circular format, worked in concentric bands against a natural linen ground (173 by 177cm., 5ft. 8in., 5ft. 9in.), together with an  embroidered quilt cover or curtain panel,  with a repeat pattern of flowering sprays,  natural linen ground, 18th century (232 by 147cm., 7ft. 7in., 4ft. 10in.), and a silk and metal-thread embroidered 'Berber Futasi' Barber's Apron, Ottoman, circa 1800,  embroidered on a cerise silk ground (Textile 166 by 124cm., 5ft. 5in., 4ft. 1in.), now mounted on a stretcher (approximately 170cm. high, 130cm. wide; 5ft. 7in., 4ft. 3in.) (Qty 3)

Condition

`Sinni' Tray Cover: Colours fairly accurate match tonally. More vibrant appearance in reality. Embroidered in fine polychrome wools onto a linen ground, with metal-thread detailing. Some losses to metal-thread wrapping in areas. Some spot staining and discolouration in areas of ground. Some minor holes. Cotton backing. Unusual design. Embroidered Quilt Cover or Curtain Panel: Colours tonally good colour match. Appearance is crisper and more defined in reality, and more lively and attractive. One panel. some spot staining in areas. Good quality and finely worked embroidery on a linen ground. Attractive panel; Barber's apron: Colours tonally good colour match. Appearance is crisper and more defined in reality. There are pin-prick holes and cracks to the cerise ground. Some water stains. It is a composite panel, with the panel panel comprised of two joined widths. The centre of the neck has an ogival fragmentary section of border inserted within it. The visible borders on the sides are pieced sections, as visible in the photograph. Originally would have had border round all edges. This does not detract from attractive overall appearance. Beautifully worked and detailed embroidery with metal thread detailing. This is professionally mounted on a stretcher (Total measurement: approximately 170cm. high, 130cm. wide; 5ft. 7in., 4ft. 3in.)
"In response to your inquiry, we are pleased to provide you with a general report of the condition of the property described above. Since we are not professional conservators or restorers, we urge you to consult with a restorer or conservator of your choice who will be better able to provide a detailed, professional report. Prospective buyers should inspect each lot to satisfy themselves as to condition and must understand that any statement made by Sotheby's is merely a subjective, qualified opinion. Prospective buyers should also refer to any Important Notices regarding this sale, which are printed in the Sale Catalogue.
NOTWITHSTANDING THIS REPORT OR ANY DISCUSSIONS CONCERNING A LOT, ALL LOTS ARE OFFERED AND SOLD AS IS" IN ACCORDANCE WITH THE CONDITIONS OF BUSINESS PRINTED IN THE SALE CATALOGUE."

Catalogue Note

Literature
See Hitzel, F., et al, Turkophilia Revealed, Exhibition Catalogue, Paris 2011, pg.54, for the embroidered quilt cover/curtain panel

Turkophilia, Exhibition, Paris, 2011

Elaborately embroidered aprons such as the present example would normally have been part of a suite of embroideries, which included a cloth to drape over the back and several hand towels; these were called the tras takim and were used in the shaving ritual of the Sultan, and courtiers. This barber's apron shows the effect of increasing European influence on Ottoman embroidery during the eighteenth century, as the strong colours of the sixteenth and seventeenth century gave way to more pastel hues and naturalistic drawing. The toned shading within areas of colour is an attractive characteristic of these late eighteenth and early nineteenth century embroideries. For related embroideries see Rogers, J.M., ed., 'Embroideries and other Textiles', The Topkapi Saray Museum, London/Boston, 1986, pls.106, 107 & 117 and Taylor, R., Ottoman Embroidery, London, 1993, pp.106-109. For further discussion of the royal shaving ritual for which these aprons were made, see Taylor, ibid., Chapter Two, The Embroidered Textiles, Ceremony, pp.105-109.  Comparable silk and metal-thread embroidered barber aprons were sold at Sotheby's, New York, Textiles, Rugs and Carpets from the collections of Bergi Andonian and Joseph W. Fell, 19th May 2011, lot 14, and London, 8th October 2008, lot 338, 11th October 2006, lot 150 and 12thApril, 1989, lot 378.

For comparables to the embroidered quilt cover offered here, see examples, of an embroidered cover, 18th century, which show the use of repeat motif within the main field, and outer four-sided border, and a cover fragment with overall pattern with stylised serrated blue leaves and  exaggerated petals, albeit with more obvious scrolls, see Krody, Sumru Belger, Flowers of Silk and Gold, Four Centuries of Ottoman Embroidery, The Textile Museum, Washington, 2000, cat.no.16, pg.116, and cat.no.15, pg.114 respectively.

Round covers of various sizes were used for a variety of purposes, including tray covers for serving coffee, as table covers, for heaters and cradles, and for discussion of this subject and an example of a later 19th century example of circular, concentric ringed, floral table covering, with similar alternating narrow scrolling floral concentric rings, see Taylor, R., Ottoman Embroidery, London, 1993, Chp. 1, The Embroidered Textiles, pp.25-139, pp.141-159, Covers, pp.124-125.