A silk and metal-thread embroidered 'Berber Futasi' Barber's Apron

red Kashmir ground

Comprised of a single panel. Wool is Kahmir and very finely handwoven. Some areas of woven wool ground are very thin, and there are some holes. Embroidery lacking to the petals in areas. Ground visible where stitching of design now lacking, especially to the flower petals, which shows the original bright red colour of the ground. Dark outlines of design visible. In the areas of the neck band there are areas of repair in a bright orange coloured wool thread. Metal thread work tarnished overall, and with minor losses in areas. Panel has been interlined wtih complimentary cerise/red colour silk which is visible behind the areas of wear from the front of the panel. The panel is backed with a cream textile. Whole edged with silver-gilt metal braid.
"In response to your inquiry, we are pleased to provide you with a general report of the condition of the property described above. Since we are not professional conservators or restorers, we urge you to consult with a restorer or conservator of your choice who will be better able to provide a detailed, professional report. Prospective buyers should inspect each lot to satisfy themselves as to condition and must understand that any statement made by Sotheby's is merely a subjective, qualified opinion. Prospective buyers should also refer to any Important Notices regarding this sale, which are printed in the Sale Catalogue.
NOTWITHSTANDING THIS REPORT OR ANY DISCUSSIONS CONCERNING A LOT, ALL LOTS ARE OFFERED AND SOLD AS IS" IN ACCORDANCE WITH THE CONDITIONS OF BUSINESS PRINTED IN THE SALE CATALOGUE."

Elaborately embroidered aprons such as the present example would normally have been part of a suite of embroideries, which included a cloth to drape over the back and several hand towels; these were called the tras takim and were used in the shaving ritual of the Sultan, and courtiers. This barber's apron shows the effect of increasing European influence on Ottoman embroidery during the eighteenth century, as the strong colours of the sixteenth and seventeenth century gave way to more pastel hues and naturalistic drawing. This particular example is unusual in that it has a fine wool ground rather than a silk, and the silk embroidered and dival style floral and foliate design are finely applied overall with the same pattern, which is the traditional design layout.

For further discussion of the royal shaving ritual for which these aprons were made, see Taylor, R., Ottoman Embroidery, London, 1993, pp.106-109  Comparable silk and metal-thread embroidered barber aprons were sold at Sotheby's, New York, Textiles, Rugs and Carpets from the collections of Bergi Andonian and Joseph W. Fell, 19^th May 2011, lot 14, and London, 8^th October 2008, lot 338, 11^th October 2006, lot 150 and 12^thApril, 1989, lot 378.