Lot 169
  • 169

Turquoise, natural pearl, enamel and diamond pendant necklace, Gautrait, Circa 1900

Estimate
12,000 - 15,000 GBP
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Description

  • pearl, diamond, enamel, gold, turquoise
Of abstract design, set with cabochon turquoise, a natural pearl drop, cushion-shaped and rose diamonds, highlighted with plique-à-jour, opaque and pearlescent enamel, suspended from a chain set at intervals with similar motifs, length approximately 620mm, pendant detachable, signed L.Gautrait, French assay marks.

Literature

Cf: Michael Koch 'The Belle Epoque of French Jewellery 1850-1910' Thomas Heneage & Co 1990, pages 283-291 for examples of jewels by Gautrait.

Condition

Accompanied by a report from The Gem & Pearl Laboratory stating the pearl is natural, saltwater. Stamped with French assay marks for 18 carat gold. Signed L. Gautrait to obverse. Plique-à-jour enamel dark brown to light grey, opaque enamel white, together with pearlescent enamel all in good condition. Natural pearl drop cream, light rosé and green overtones, drilled, some chips at bottom of drill hole. Turquoise light blue to green, typical matrix visible on reverse. Estimated total diamond weight approximately 1.20 - 1.30 carats, estimated colour K-M, estimated clarity VS - SI, rose diamonds bright and lively. Pendant detachable from chain, the reverse with fittings for brooch fitting, brooch fitting now deficient. Some abrasions and slight tarnish to mount consistent with age and wear. In good condition. Accompanied by case signed Lemoine fils succ, Rue de Castiglione 10, Paris.
"In response to your inquiry, we are pleased to provide you with a general report of the condition of the property described above. Please note that colour, clarity and weight of gemstones are statements of opinion only and not statements of fact by Sotheby's. We do not guarantee, and are not responsible for any certificate from a gemological laboratory that may accompany the property. We do not guarantee that watches are in working order. Prospective buyers should inspect each lot to satisfy themselves as to condition and must understand that any statement made by Sotheby's is merely a subjective, qualified opinion. Prospective buyers should also refer to refer to any Important Notices regarding this sale, which are printed in the Sale Catalogue, in particular to the Notice regarding the treatment and condition of gemstones and to the Notice regarding import of Burmese jadeite and rubies into the US.
NOTWITHSTANDING THIS REPORT OR ANY DISCUSSIONS CONCERNING A LOT, ALL LOTS ARE OFFERED AND SOLD "AS IS" IN ACCORDANCE WITH THE CONDITIONS OF BUSINESS PRINTED IN THE SALE CATALOGUE."

Catalogue Note

Accompanied by The Gem & Pearl and Laboratory report no. 06280, stating that the pearl was found to be natural, saltwater.

Lucien Gautrait, a predominant Parisian jeweller noted for his use of enamel and peacock feather motifs. Little is known about him, even the records dispute if he was called Lucien or Leopold, although he did work as a modeller and chaser for Leon Gariod a firm established in 1859 by Gaucher and Tonnelier forming a partnership with Gariod in 1875. Many of Gautrait known pieces show a strong similarity to the jewels of Lalique in the use of enamel and precious stones as discreet accents.