White Gold, Citrine, Amethyst, Diamond and Enamel Brooch, Attributed to Jean Fouquet, Circa 1927

Of geometric design, centered by five square-cut citrines, framed by single-cut diamonds weighing approximately .95 carat, the border applied with turquoise enamel, accented at the corners by circular motifs set with triangle-cut amethysts, unsigned, attributed to Jean Fouquet.

This brooch is similar in design to a piece illustrated in Les Fouquets: Bijoutiers & Joailliers à Paris 1860-1960, Musée des Arts Décoratifs, page 135; in addition, a similar brooch is illustrated in the exhibtion catalogue Bijoux Et Orfèvrerie from 1931.

In good condition overall, with some light tarnishing on the reverse commensurate with age. The amethsyts are a medium, violetish purple, eye-clean. The citrines are a light yellow, eye-clean and well-matched for color. The diamonds are approximately I-J color, predominantly SI clarity. There is some very minor enamel loss that is not readily apparent without magnification. The pavilion to one of the amethysts is chipped. While not immediately apparent without magnification, the chip may be seen in the enhancement photo of the printed catalogue.
In response to your inquiry, we are pleased to provide you with a general report of the condition of the property described above. Since we are not professional conservators or restorers, we urge you to consult with a restorer or conservator of your choice who will be better able to provide a detailed, professional report. Prospective buyers should inspect each lot to satisfy themselves as to condition and must understand that any statement made by Sotheby's is merely a subjective qualified opinion. Illustrations in the catalogue may not be actual size. Prospective purchasers are reminded that, unless the catalogue description specifically states that a stone is natural, we have assumed that some form of treatment may have been used and that such treatment may not be permanent. Our presale estimates reflect this assumption.
NOTWITHSTANDING THIS REPORT OR ANY DISCUSSIONS CONCERNING CONDITION OF A LOT, ALL LOTS ARE OFFERED AND SOLD "AS IS" IN ACCORDANCE WITH THE CONDITIONS OF SALE PRINTED IN THE CATALOGUE.

When Jean Fouquet joined the Maison Fouquet in a professional capacity in 1919 at the age of 20, he was the third generation of Fouquet jewelers. By the time of the legendary Exposition des Art Décoratifs in 1925, he had risen to become one of the top designers in the firm and his jewels were among the most novel produced under the Fouquet name. Eschewing platinum in favor of white gold and using semi-precious stones such as citrines and amethysts, he created pieces that were resolutely contemporary.

 Jean Fouquet simplified form as much as possible in jewelry, focusing on linear, industrial designs that reflected the aesthetic of the Art Deco movement of which he was a chief proponent. Indeed, he wrote that his creations should “fulfill the criteria of a work of art and at the same time conform to the functional demands of a product.” Such patterns, combined with large stones, reinforced his belief that jewelry should be easily legible from great distances. Though Jean Fouquet never ascended to manage the Maison Fouquet, he played an integral role in the creation of the Union des Arts Modernes, championed fellow designers such as Gérard Sandoz and Jean Després and was a leading member of the French artistic community.

 Drawing from Cubist painters working in Paris, Fouquet strove to create dissonance in his work – round shapes were broken dramatically by rectilinear ones, and complementary colors like purple and yellow were frequently used. He may also have been influenced by popular culture via poster artists like Cassandre who, in addition to creating advertisements for leading French companies, designed a piece of jewelry manufactured and exhibited by Georges Fouquet. Rich colors, bright enamel and bold geometric patterns all marked Jean Fouquet’s oeuvre, and are embodied by the above brooch.