Lot 396
  • 396

Platinum, Natural Pearl and Diamond Necklace, Circa 1925

Estimate
75,000 - 100,000 USD
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Description

  • Natural Pearls, Diamond, and Platinum
The graduated single-strand composed of 66 natural pearls measuring approximately 9.50 to 5.30 mm., completed by clasp set with a marquise-shaped diamond weighing approximately 1.30 carats, length 18¾ inches.

Condition

Accompanied by SSEF report no. 61934 stating 66 natural pearls, saltwater. In good condition; re-stringing is recommended. The round to near-round pearls present a creamy white body color, moderate to strong pink and green overtones, and a satin-like to high luster. Primarily minor to moderate blemishing with several examples, including some of the larger pearls, bearing more significant blemishing and mottled skins. The diamond is approximately I-J color, SI clarity. The engraving along the gallery remains crisp. Fitted with a safety clasp.
In response to your inquiry, we are pleased to provide you with a general report of the condition of the property described above. Since we are not professional conservators or restorers, we urge you to consult with a restorer or conservator of your choice who will be better able to provide a detailed, professional report. Prospective buyers should inspect each lot to satisfy themselves as to condition and must understand that any statement made by Sotheby's is merely a subjective qualified opinion. Illustrations in the catalogue may not be actual size. Prospective purchasers are reminded that, unless the catalogue description specifically states that a stone is natural, we have assumed that some form of treatment may have been used and that such treatment may not be permanent. Our presale estimates reflect this assumption.
NOTWITHSTANDING THIS REPORT OR ANY DISCUSSIONS CONCERNING CONDITION OF A LOT, ALL LOTS ARE OFFERED AND SOLD "AS IS" IN ACCORDANCE WITH THE CONDITIONS OF SALE PRINTED IN THE CATALOGUE.

Catalogue Note

Accompanied by SSEF report no. 61934 stating 66 natural pearls, saltwater.

In November, 1948, Claude Arpels of Van Cleef & Arpels N.Y. provided the owner of this pearl necklace an insurance appraisal for $14,000.  Composed of 66 pearls graduating in size from approximately 9.4 mm. to 5.1 mm. in size, he described them as "a fine string of pearls of a fine rosy color."  In an attempt to assist in their sale for charity, Mr. Arpels wrote of the "costliest cocktail the world has ever known" when Cleopatra in a display of "vanity, waste and pride" dissolved the "largest pearl in the Orient" in a cup of vinegar and drank it down defying her nobles to outdo  her.  He went on to name La Pellegrina weighing 28 carats and the pearl of the Beresford-Hope Collection which weighs 422 carats as examples of natural pearls at their most magnificent.

"The matching of pearls is a rare art – and the finding of pearls that match is a great achievement," he continued.   "To amass the fortune threaded on this string, men have dived into great ocean depths – have fought sharks and octopuses, have suffered strained lungs and salt-burn and bends....Pearls occur once in a thousand shells.  Such pearls as these once in a thousand pearls."  He stated that before 1929, referring to the start of the Great Depression, a value of $50,000, would have been reasonable for a pearl necklace of this quality.