Lot 20
  • 20

A pair of jewelled two-coloured gold commemorative bracelets with portraits of Duke Charles III of Parma and his mother Maria-Theresa, Princess of Lucca, unmarked, probably North Italian, circa 1825

Estimate
2,500 - 4,000 GBP
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Description

  • gold, gemstones, ivory, human hair
  • each 20.5cm, 8 in
composed of linked flowers and wirework scrolls, the centres set with gemstones spelling the names FERDINAND and THÉRÈSE, the clasps set with miniatures, Italian School, of the mother and child, the reverse with locks of their hair, in original tooled morocco case

Provenance

Accompanying the bracelets is a printed mourning card for 'Elie Prinz von Parma / Oberstleutnant im 6. Dragoner Regiment' ; the reverse inscribed in pencil '2 Bracelets avec miniatures du Duc Charles III de Parme et de Maria Theresa Duchesse de Lucques nee Pcsse. de Savoie'.

Maria Theresa (1803-1879), daughter of Victor Emmanuel I of Sardinia and Archduchess Maria Theresa of Austria-Este, married in 1820 Charles Louis I, Prince of Lucca (Duke Charles II of Parma). Their only son was born in January 1823 and was known as Ferdinand or Ferdinand Charles until his accession as Charles III, Duke of Parma in 1849. His grandson Prince Elias was head of the ducal family from 1950-1959.

Condition

Traces of solder to reverse of gemstone settings, not visible when worn. Glazed miniatures: glass slightly scratched/scuffed. Secure clasps. Bracelet in excellent condition but case is slightly scuffed and cracked at the hinges.
"In response to your inquiry, we are pleased to provide you with a general report of the condition of the property described above. Since we are not professional conservators or restorers, we urge you to consult with a restorer or conservator of your choice who will be better able to provide a detailed, professional report. Prospective buyers should inspect each lot to satisfy themselves as to condition and must understand that any statement made by Sotheby's is merely a subjective, qualified opinion. Prospective buyers should also refer to any Important Notices regarding this sale, which are printed in the Sale Catalogue.
NOTWITHSTANDING THIS REPORT OR ANY DISCUSSIONS CONCERNING A LOT, ALL LOTS ARE OFFERED AND SOLD AS IS" IN ACCORDANCE WITH THE CONDITIONS OF BUSINESS PRINTED IN THE SALE CATALOGUE."

Catalogue Note

Acrostic or 'Regard' jewellery as it is more commonly known was popular in Europe in the early 19th century and was said to have been first used by Empress Josephine. Gemstones whose initials spelled names and appropriate words would be mounted into bracelets or brooches. In this case we have Topaz, Hyalite, Emerald, Ruby, Emerald, Sapphire, and Emerald spelling 'Thérèse', the other bracelet with 'Ferdinand'.