Platinum, Diamond and Natural Corsage Ornament, Circa 1910

The top designed as an openwork stylized bow suspending diamond-set tassels, set throughout with old mine and single-cut diamonds weighing approximately 15.00 carats, three tassels supporting natural pearl drops measuring 12.4 by 12.30 mm., 10.25 by 9.80 mm. and 9.70 by 8.80 mm., with partial signature for Cartier.

Accompanied by GIA report no. 2125998137 stating natural pearls, saltwater. The pearls are of a satin-y to good luster, with moderate overtones of pink, lavender, mocha and blue-green. The pearl on the left (facing) is slightly more silver-violet and is well formed, the pearl on the right (facing) is more elongated and slightly flattened on the reverse; the large center pearl is a creamier hue and exhibits a small amount of blemishing in the form of pitting and slight ringing. The diamonds are approximately H-K color with several of the stones showing a faint brown or yellow tint. Predominantly SI-I clarity, but with some VS clarity stones as well. Very nice movement to the fringes. There are stamped numerals 1, 4 and 5 on the back of the links just above the pearl caps. The pearl pendants were likely detachable at one point, there is some small evidence of solder at the top of the pendant hooks. Overall good condition. The faint, partial signature is located on the left-hand the curved support bar; can only be seen under magnification.
In response to your inquiry, we are pleased to provide you with a general report of the condition of the property described above. Since we are not professional conservators or restorers, we urge you to consult with a restorer or conservator of your choice who will be better able to provide a detailed, professional report. Prospective buyers should inspect each lot to satisfy themselves as to condition and must understand that any statement made by Sotheby's is merely a subjective qualified opinion. Illustrations in the catalogue may not be actual size. Prospective purchasers are reminded that, unless the catalogue description specifically states that a stone is natural, we have assumed that some form of treatment may have been used and that such treatment may not be permanent. Our presale estimates reflect this assumption.
NOTWITHSTANDING THIS REPORT OR ANY DISCUSSIONS CONCERNING CONDITION OF A LOT, ALL LOTS ARE OFFERED AND SOLD "AS IS" IN ACCORDANCE WITH THE CONDITIONS OF SALE PRINTED IN THE CATALOGUE.

Accompanied by GIA report no. 2125998137 stating natural pearls, saltwater.

Around the turn of the last century, a renewed interest in the splendor of the Court of Versailles resulted in a desire to recapture the elegance of that bygone era through extravagant balls, masquerades and hunts. Known in France as the Belle Epoque, this period lasted from 1890 until World War I. Under the direction of Louis Cartier, the firm's designers took inspiration from French history, including 18th century pattern books and architectural ornamentation from iconic buildings such as the Petit Trianon.

The term 'garland style' is used to describe Cartier's jewelry from this period as the company's designs often incorporated floral or foliate swags and garlands. Other popular motifs were bows, ribbons and tassels, often against a delicate openwork background resembling lace or wrought ironwork. Although inspired by 18th century designs, Cartier's Belle Epoque creations were not mere copies of what had gone before. The company pioneered the use of setting diamonds in platinum and, by replacing the earlier silver and gold mountings, achieved a lightness and flexibility that was previously impossible.

The new trend in fashion for gowns with deeply plunging necklines proved to be the perfect backdrop for the bodice jewel or corsage ornament. At their most extravagant, the shape of these jewels followed the outline of the bodice and could be sewn directly on the dress or fixed with pins. By 1907, these elaborate examples gave way to more compact ornaments designed as a central plaque from which were attached perpendicular strands of diamonds. The corsage ornament offered here is an example of such a type. Another similar corsage ornament dating from 1907 is illustrated by Hans Nadelhoffer, Cartier: Jewelers Extraordinary, p. 55, no. 38.