Silver, Silver-Gilt and Lacquer Bracelet, Jean Dunand, Circa 1922

Composed of curved silver plaques applied with alternating orange lacquer and silver-gilt cubes outlined in gold lacquer, joined by crimped silver-gilt links, length 6½ inches, width 3¼ inches.

Very good overall condition. Some tarnish and some light scratching when viewed under magnification commensurate with the age of the piece. There are no marks. An identical bracelet is illustrated in Jean Dunand: His Life and Works, by Felix Marchilhac, no. 81 and in Art Deco Jewelry, by Evelyne Posseme, p. 134. .
In response to your inquiry, we are pleased to provide you with a general report of the condition of the property described above. Since we are not professional conservators or restorers, we urge you to consult with a restorer or conservator of your choice who will be better able to provide a detailed, professional report. Prospective buyers should inspect each lot to satisfy themselves as to condition and must understand that any statement made by Sotheby's is merely a subjective qualified opinion. Illustrations in the catalogue may not be actual size. Prospective purchasers are reminded that, unless the catalogue description specifically states that a stone is natural, we have assumed that some form of treatment may have been used and that such treatment may not be permanent. Our presale estimates reflect this assumption.
NOTWITHSTANDING THIS REPORT OR ANY DISCUSSIONS CONCERNING CONDITION OF A LOT, ALL LOTS ARE OFFERED AND SOLD "AS IS" IN ACCORDANCE WITH THE CONDITIONS OF SALE PRINTED IN THE CATALOGUE.

Jean Dunand (1877-1942) was undoubtedly one of the most talented and prolific of Art Deco artists. Born in Switzerland, he went to Paris as a young man to study sculpture and by 1904 decided to make that city his home. He set up a number of studios on rue Halle where he devoted himself to perfecting his metal-working skills, especially dinanderie (hand beaten copper and brassware) and lacquer painting. He developed these two techniques to perfection and was so successful that he abandoned sculpture to devote himself entirely to the decorative arts. Dunand's work was of the highest order both artistically and technically and he was highly respected by his peers during his lifetime. Some of his memorable commissions included the lacquer murals for several ocean liners including the famous Normandie, and interior design for the homes of such notables as the clothing designer Madeleine Vionnet and Solomon Guggenheim. 

Dunand's foray into the world of fashion happened by chance. He observed the way the diluted lacquer dried on the silk rags that he used to wipe his paint brushes and found that the fabric remained supple. Encouraged by a female designer friend to put this discovery to good use, he opened another studio devoted entirely to producing lacquer-decorated fabrics. As for jewelry, Dunand already had some experience with accessories and had designed items such as belt buckles, lapel pins and hat pins. He expanded his repertoire with lacquer-decorated "gold" necklaces and bracelets and encouraged female members of the family to model them. These simple yet highly sophisticated creations were the perfect complement to the fashions of the day whose modern graphic elements were directly inspired by the Cubist movement. Sharing a common design philosophy with the top couturiers in Paris, Dunand supplied jewelry for Jeanne Lanvin, Elsa Schiaparelli, Madeleine Vionnet, and the hat designer Madame Agnès, among others. 

The jewelry of Jean Dunand was usually made from copper inlaid with silver, lacquered metal or wood, or Oreum, a gold alloy. Every type of geometric shape was employed, often found overlapping or interlocking, giving a sculptural dimension to the piece. He also produced multi-ringed 'giraffe' necklaces and matching bracelets inspired by African tribal jewelry. The celebrated nightclub entertainer Josephine Baker was often portrayed wearing Dunand jewelry and is said to be one of the first to commission a bangle made by him in 1925. 

An almost identical bracelet by Dunand is illustrated in Jean Dunand: His Life and Works, by Felix Marchilhac, no. 81, and in Art Deco Jewelry, by Evelyne Posseme, edited by Laurence Mouillefarine, p. 134.