Platinum, Sapphire and Diamond Ring, Raymond Yard, 1939

The oval sapphire weighing 27.08 carats, flanked by hexagonal-shaped, baguette and bullet-shaped diamonds, size 5¼, signed Yard.

Accompanied by AGL report no. CS 39642 stating that the sapphire is of Burmese origin, no gemological evidence of heat enhancement present. The sapphire is a rich medium blue color and is slightly included. A small amount of windowing and dischroism at one edge when viewed from the side. Good polish on the surface, with only minute abrasions to a few of the facet junctions and one very small nick near the edge of the belly of the stone. Diamonds are approximately E-F color and VVS-VS clarity. In good condition. Signed Yard and scratch numbered 0298Y.
In response to your inquiry, we are pleased to provide you with a general report of the condition of the property described above. Since we are not professional conservators or restorers, we urge you to consult with a restorer or conservator of your choice who will be better able to provide a detailed, professional report. Prospective buyers should inspect each lot to satisfy themselves as to condition and must understand that any statement made by Sotheby's is merely a subjective qualified opinion. Illustrations in the catalogue may not be actual size. Prospective purchasers are reminded that, unless the catalogue description specifically states that a stone is natural, we have assumed that some form of treatment may have been used and that such treatment may not be permanent. Our presale estimates reflect this assumption.
NOTWITHSTANDING THIS REPORT OR ANY DISCUSSIONS CONCERNING CONDITION OF A LOT, ALL LOTS ARE OFFERED AND SOLD "AS IS" IN ACCORDANCE WITH THE CONDITIONS OF SALE PRINTED IN THE CATALOGUE.

Accompanied by AGL report no. CS 39642 stating that the sapphire is of Burmese origin, no gemological evidence of heat enhancement present. 

Together with a letter from AGL stating that this sapphire is classified as Excellent.  'This rating category is reserved for a limited number of rare gemstones that exhibit all the individual elements that define the highest level of a category.  Augmenting the importance of this material is its unusual size and the fact that the gem does not exhibit any gemological evidence of heating or clarity alteration common in many sapphires available in today's marketplace.  This lack of enhancement further accentuates the rarity and desirability of this rare combination of size and quality.'

The sapphire ring offered here is illustrated by Natasha Kuzmanovic in Yard: The Life and Magnificent Jewelry of Raymond C. Yard, p. 208, no. 298.  According to Kuzmanovic, the sapphire was selected by Louis Comfort Tiffany and later mounted as a ring for John Jacob Astor in 1939 by Raymond Yard. The single stone mounting with small baguette or bullet diamonds on each side, as found in the present ring, gained popularity during the 1930s and replaced the earlier Yard ring mountings with round diamond decoration.

Raymond Yard was considered a 'jeweler's jeweler' by his peers. He was extremely knowledgeable about the technical side of jewelry making and had an impeccable eye for stones. After working his way up the ladder at Marcus & Co., he was encouraged to open his own firm in 1922 by John D. Rockefeller Jr. who was a prominent client.  In addition to his formidable knowledge and talent, Yard's charismatic personality and reputation for honesty made him the favorite jeweler of New York's moneyed elite, including the Woolworths, DuPonts and Havemeyers.  It is not surprising therefore that Raymond Yard would have been the jeweler of choice to make the present sapphire ring for John Jacob Astor.