18 Karat Gold, Enamel and Ruby 'Chinoiserie' Bracelet, France, Circa 1865

Composed of five polychrome enamel plaques depicting Chinese theatrical characters, including two female musicians, a princess consort, an immortal and a foreigner, spaced by five pierced plaques applied with quatrefoils of pear-shaped rubies, the borders accented with turquoise and royal blue champlevé enamel and old mine diamonds, length 7½ inches, French maker's mark and assay marks.

Good overall condition. Panel with female musician and panel with immortal have a few hairline cracks, visible under magnification, and a small area of royal blue enamel border is missing. A few corners of royal blue enamel have chips only visible under magnification. A few other minor surface scratches on panels. Rubies are a medium pinkish red. One ruby noticeably chipped. Diamonds are of decorative quality. Assay marks on tongue of clasp, also workshop mark P R in lozenge.
In response to your inquiry, we are pleased to provide you with a general report of the condition of the property described above. Since we are not professional conservators or restorers, we urge you to consult with a restorer or conservator of your choice who will be better able to provide a detailed, professional report. Prospective buyers should inspect each lot to satisfy themselves as to condition and must understand that any statement made by Sotheby's is merely a subjective qualified opinion. Illustrations in the catalogue may not be actual size. Prospective purchasers are reminded that, unless the catalogue description specifically states that a stone is natural, we have assumed that some form of treatment may have been used and that such treatment may not be permanent. Our presale estimates reflect this assumption.
NOTWITHSTANDING THIS REPORT OR ANY DISCUSSIONS CONCERNING CONDITION OF A LOT, ALL LOTS ARE OFFERED AND SOLD "AS IS" IN ACCORDANCE WITH THE CONDITIONS OF SALE PRINTED IN THE CATALOGUE.

Similar brooches and pendants decorated in Japanese taste, marked on the reverse E.W.S. for Edwin W. Streeter, are illustrated in The Art of the Jeweller: A Catalogue of the Hull Grundy Gift to the British Museum, edited by Hugh Tait, p. 291, nos. 1068 and 1069.  The catalogue states that these pieces were not typical of Streeter's work and it is supposed that the enamels came from an outside source, possibly France.  Henri Vever also mentions a series of jewels in Chinese taste, with enamels representing sumptuously dressed gods and goddesses, that were designed by Laisne and executed for Fontana's display at the Paris Exposition of 1867.  See French Jewelry of the 19th Century, Henri Vever, translated by Katherine Purcell, p. 782.