Lot 467
  • 467

Very fine emerald, spessartite garnet and diamond ring

Estimate
365,000 - 550,000 CHF
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Description

Centring on a hexagonal emerald weighing 12.01 carats between shoulders set with kite-shaped diamonds and calibré-cut cabochon spessartite garnets, mounted in yellow gold and platinum, size 51.

Condition

Stamped Pt 950 for platinum and 750 for gold. Please refer to SSEF report for details on the emerald. Rich green colour, good and even saturation, good lustre, extremely high transparency with a few typical internal inclusions, some surface reaching. Diamonds stated to weigh 0.77 carats in total, F-G colour, VVS clarity. In very good condition.
"In response to your inquiry, we are pleased to provide you with a general report of the condition of the property described above. Please note that colour, clarity and weight of gemstones are statements of opinion only and not statements of fact by Sotheby's. We do not guarantee, and are not responsible for any certificate from a gemological laboratory that may accompany the property. We do not guarantee that watches are in working order. Prospective buyers should inspect each lot to satisfy themselves as to condition and must understand that any statement made by Sotheby's is merely a subjective, qualified opinion. Prospective buyers should also refer to refer to any Important Notices regarding this sale, which are printed in the Sale Catalogue, in particular to the Notice regarding the treatment and condition of gemstones and to the Notice regarding import of Burmese jadeite and rubies into the US.
NOTWITHSTANDING THIS REPORT OR ANY DISCUSSIONS CONCERNING A LOT, ALL LOTS ARE OFFERED AND SOLD "AS IS" IN ACCORDANCE WITH THE CONDITIONS OF BUSINESS PRINTED IN THE SALE CATALOGUE."

Catalogue Note

Emerald, a silicate of beryllium is the most important gem belonging to the beryl family. Colombian emeralds primarily owe their incomparable and intense green colour to chromium, the same element that gives ruby its distinctive red hue. This unique chromophor while positive in respect to colour can have a negative impact on clarity. In regards to the atomic structure of an emerald, high levels of chromium, in combination with low levels of iron, may result in crystallographic stress fractures, lowering the clarity of vivid green emeralds. It is therefore extremely rare to yield emeralds with both a beautiful colour and high clarity, as seen in the 12.01 carat gemstone.

Fascinating, intense green and luminous, emeralds are among the most coveted and prestigious gemstones since ancient times. Their unique colour explains their remarkable history. The Egyptians were exploiting emeralds from the so-called Cleopatra's mines over 4000 years ago. These mines were the major source of fine emeralds until the discovery of the New World in the 15th century.

The finest, vivid green emeralds come from Colombia, which for centuries has been the largest producer of gem quality emeralds in the world. Though they were initially searching for gold, the Spanish Conquistadores were also to discover emeralds and emerald-set jewellery. The quality of these emeralds surpassed that of all other gemstones seen in Europe, enamouring all who came to look upon them.

It was in 1560 that the spectacular Colombian mine of Muzo, a sacred gemstone site of the native Indians, was discovered. Situated approximately 100 km northwest of Bogota in the eastern foothills of the Andes in central Colombia, the mining district of Muzo is rich in history. The oldest emerald mines still in operation, for over five centuries without interruption, the legendary Muzo mines are comparable to that of Mogok rubies and Golconda diamonds.

With the discovery of the Muzo mines, carats of these newly mined emeralds began to flow from the jungles of Colombia to Spain. One fifth of the finest emeralds were reserved by the 'Mina Real' (Royal Mine) for the Spanish Court, while others appeared in the finest Indian jewels of the Mughal period. According to the famous gem merchant Jean-Baptiste Tavernier, who visited the courts of Louis XIV and that of the Mughal rulers, a selection of the best gemstones were shipped from Colombia to the emerald-adoring Moghul rulers in India. Later the Romanov, the Napoleonic emperors and the European Royal families became avid collectors of Colombian emeralds. In the 20th Century, great jewellery houses such as Cartier, Van Cleef & Arpels, Boucheron and later Winston purchased and sold fine examples of these 'old-mine' stones.

In November 2009, Muzo International, a branch of Texma Group, was awarded exclusive mining rights to the Muzo mines. Muzo is known in Colombia as the world capital of emeralds and today approximately 75% of its population is involved in the emerald industry. Muzo International holds a unique position in the industry, having complete control of all gemstones from the mines to the market, guaranteeing the full traceability for every gemstone. This ensures the highest quality and ethical standards.

Muzo mines produce the most desirable emeralds in the world and Sotheby's is thrilled to have the opportunity to offer at auction one of the finest and rarest gem originating from the legendary Muzo mines. This superb emerald, weighing 12.01 carats, displays an evenly saturated, deep bluish-green colour combined with a high transparency. An emerald of such size and quality which has been spared of any enhancement is very rare and will surely appeal to international gem connoisseurs.