An Ottoman silk brocade fragment, Turkey, early 17th century

Warps: natural coloured silk and metal threads, twill weave;
Wefts: pattern faced weft cerise silk and brocade of thin gold metal-wrapped yellow silk core threads;
Brocade: 13-14 H/ 7-8 V

woven with cerise silk ground, olive green silk central floral detailing, gold threads with repeat pattern of gently swaying foliate tendrils, with composite floral heads on single stems including tulips and peonies

Fragment of brocade. Evidence cut along lower, upper and right edges. There is evidence of original turned selvedge on left side. There is a band on the leff and right, each comprising of double vertical lines, with 2.5cm. between each line, with tiny holes. Probably originally seams and the fragment previously part of a costume. There are some loose threads top centre of the fragment. Evidence of old folds, both vertically and horizontally, through the centre. Gold still sparkles, on front and reverse. Striking fragment. Condition as viewed
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This luxury fragment displays one of the five main design themes of Ottoman silks, as discussed in Ipek: The Crescent and the Rose (Atasoy 2001). The complex yet subtle design is based on the primary theme of the wavy vine pattern offset by secondary motifs such as pomegranates, tulips, lotuses and vine leaves, which are then seen in relation to the stems. This counterpoint sets in motion a visual conceit in which the blossoming flowers appear to be crossing over the stems or beside them, echoing the curve and counter-curve characteristic of Iznik pottery design of the same period.

Wavy vine patterns are rare in cloth of gold and silver (Atasoy 2001, p.208). A comparable fragment can be found in the Fitzwilliam Museum, Cambridge (inv. no. T.24-1912) (ibid., fig.90.iii).