Lot 9
  • 9

THE PAIR OF GOLD, TINTED ROCK CRYSTAL INTAGLIO AND ENAMEL CUFFLINKS, ENGLISH, CIRCA 1915

Estimate
10,000 - 15,000 GBP
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Description

  • gold, crystal, enamel
Each circular link set with a cabochon rock crystal reverse intaglio decorated with the ciphers of King George V and Queen Mary within a blue enamel Garter motto, each link measuring approximately 12mm in diameter.

Literature

Cf: Sotheby's, The Jewels of the Duchess of Windsor, Geneva, Friday 3rd April 1987, Lot 105.

Cf: Robert Werlich, Orders and Decorations of All Nations, Ancient and Modern Civil and Military, Second Edition, 1974, page 199 - 200.

Condition

Each link stamped 18 for 18 carat gold. Minor scratches consistent with age and wear. Accompanied by fitted case made by Cartier after 1987 sale at Sotheby's. In good condition.
"In response to your inquiry, we are pleased to provide you with a general report of the condition of the property described above. Please note that colour, clarity and weight of gemstones are statements of opinion only and not statements of fact by Sotheby's. We do not guarantee, and are not responsible for any certificate from a gemological laboratory that may accompany the property. We do not guarantee that watches are in working order. Prospective buyers should inspect each lot to satisfy themselves as to condition and must understand that any statement made by Sotheby's is merely a subjective, qualified opinion. Prospective buyers should also refer to refer to any Important Notices regarding this sale, which are printed in the Sale Catalogue, in particular to the Notice regarding the treatment and condition of gemstones and to the Notice regarding import of Burmese jadeite and rubies into the US.
NOTWITHSTANDING THIS REPORT OR ANY DISCUSSIONS CONCERNING A LOT, ALL LOTS ARE OFFERED AND SOLD "AS IS" IN ACCORDANCE WITH THE CONDITIONS OF BUSINESS PRINTED IN THE SALE CATALOGUE."

Catalogue Note

The Most Noble Order of the Garter was founded by King Edward III in 1348.  It is the highest British Order of Knighthood and one of the oldest and most esteemed in the world.  The motto Honi Soit Qui Mal Y Pense in Old French translates as 'Shame to him, who evil thinks'.  This statement is thought to have originated from an incident at a reception where the Countess of Salisbury's garter broke and fell to the floor.  King Edward is supposed to have picked it up and noticing the onlookers comments and expressions rebuked them with the words, "Dishononored be he who thinks evil of it."  Membership of the Order of the Garter is limited to the reigning monarch and twenty-five Christian Knights.  Selected Royal Heads of State are admitted and known as Extra Knights and Ladies of the Garter.  A garter of dark blue velvet is worn by the British Sovereign. Gentlemen wear it on the left leg below the knee and lady members on the left arm above the elbow

The Prince automatically became a Knight of the Garter in 1910, when his father created him Prince of Wales.  He took part in the Garter ceremony of 10 June 1911 when he was formally invested.  He was briefly Sovereign of the Order in 1936.  As Duke of Windsor he remained a Knight of the Garter, his third Garter banner (the heraldry being different) hanging over his stall until his death in 1972. 

Several times he was painted in Garter robes, and as Duke of Windsor, he posed for James Gunn at the Moulin des Tuileries.  That portrait is now in the Musée de la Légion d'Honneur in Paris.