THE SET OF THREE ENAMEL, DEMANTOID GARNET AND DIAMOND DRESS BUTTONS, ENGLISH, CIRCA 1905

Each designed as the White Rose of York, decorated with white enamel set with a rose diamond at the centre and accented with circular demantoid garnets between the petals, each approximately 13mm in diameter, two demantoid garnets deficient.

Cf: Sotheby's, The Jewels of the Duchess of Windsor, Geneva, Friday 3rd April 1987, Lot 122.

Cf: Suzy Menkes, The Windsor Style, London, 1987, page 188 where the Handbag Suite, by Van Cleef & Arpels is mentioned, lot 166 from the auction on 3rd April 1987 is mentioned.

Mounted in gold. Minor losses to white enamel. Demantoid garnets vivid yellowish green, well matched, two stones deficient. Rose diamonds set in white metal, probably silver, closed back settings. Scratches consistent with age and wear. Accompanied by fitted case made by Cartier after 1987 sale at Sotheby's. In good condition.
"In response to your inquiry, we are pleased to provide you with a general report of the condition of the property described above. Please note that colour, clarity and weight of gemstones are statements of opinion only and not statements of fact by Sotheby's. We do not guarantee, and are not responsible for any certificate from a gemological laboratory that may accompany the property. We do not guarantee that watches are in working order. Prospective buyers should inspect each lot to satisfy themselves as to condition and must understand that any statement made by Sotheby's is merely a subjective, qualified opinion. Prospective buyers should also refer to refer to any Important Notices regarding this sale, which are printed in the Sale Catalogue, in particular to the Notice regarding the treatment and condition of gemstones and to the Notice regarding import of Burmese jadeite and rubies into the US.
NOTWITHSTANDING THIS REPORT OR ANY DISCUSSIONS CONCERNING A LOT, ALL LOTS ARE OFFERED AND SOLD "AS IS" IN ACCORDANCE WITH THE CONDITIONS OF BUSINESS PRINTED IN THE SALE CATALOGUE."

The White Rose of York, also called the Rose alba or rose argent, is a white heraldic rose and the symbol of the House of York.  This has now been established also as the symbol of the county of Yorkshire. 

The use of the Rose as a political symbol can be traced back to the War of the Roses when the Houses of York and Lancashire adopted the White and Red Rose as their respective emblems.  After Henry Tudor united the rival houses of Lancaster and York the title of the Duke of York became a royal prerogative and is traditionally given to the second son of the reigning monarch.  George V was given this title prior to becoming Prince of Wales in 1901.  It is therefore probable that King George V gave these cufflinks to his son who was born, Prince Edward of York.  King George VI was also the Duke of York from 1920, until he ascended the throne in 1936.

 In the 1987 auction at Sotheby's of The Duchess of Windsor's Jewels, Lot 166 had a similar rose motif applied as decoration on the top right hand corner of the notebook holder, part of a suite of lady's accessories by Van Cleef & Arpels, circa 1950.  This was one of several of cufflinks and tiepin tops mounted onto the holder.  The Duke of Windsor was said to have stated "since I hardly ever wear a pin in my tie, I had the tops of them mounted on the Duchess's various gold accessories which she carries in her handbag".