THE RUBY, SAPPHIRE, EMERALD, CITRINE AND DIAMOND FLAMINGO CLIP, MOUNTED BY CARTIER, PARIS, 1940

Designed as a flamingo in a characteristic pose, the plumage set with calibré-cut emeralds, rubies and sapphires, the beak set with a cabochon citrine and sapphire, the eye set with a similarly cut sapphire, the head, neck, body and hinged legs pavé-set with circular-, brilliant- and single-cut diamonds, measuring approximately 95mm x 65mm x 22mm, signed to the clasp MONTURE Cartier and indistinctly numbered, French assay and maker's marks.

Cartier & America, San Francisco, USA, 19th December 2009 - 18th April 2010, extended 9th May 2010, item 25, page 120.

Living Diamonds, Flora & Fauna in Diamond Jewellery until 1960, Antwerp, Belgium, 10th October - 10th November 2002

Cartier, Goldsmith's Hall, London, 1988.

Cf: Sotheby's, The Jewels of the Duchess of Windsor, Geneva, Thursday 2nd April 1987, Lot 52.

Cf: Hans Nadelhoffer, Cartier, London, 2007, page 233.

Cf: Michael Bloch, Operation Willi, London, 1984, 2nd p. of photographs after page 82.

Cf: Musée de Petit Palais, The Art of Cartier, Paris, 1989, pages 101 – 102 and 163 where the Flamingo clip is mentioned.

Cf: Nadine Coleno, Amazing Cartier, Jewelry Design since 1937, Paris, 2009, pages 26-28

Cf: Suzy Menkes, The Royal Jewels, London, 1986, Chapter 4 and page 79.

Cf: Suzy Menkes, The Windsor Style, London, 1987, chapter entitled Objects of Desire with details of several items in the jewellery collection of the Duchess of Windsor including the Flamingo.

Cf: Stefano Papi & Alexandra Rhodes, Famous Jewelry Collectors, London, 1999, pages 114 – 129 regarding the Duchess of Windsor's jewellery collection.

Cf: David Bennett & Daniela Mascetti, Understanding Jewellery, London, 2003, page 382

Stamped 750, French assay marks for 18 carat gold and PT950 and French assay marks for platinum, maker's marks, indistinctly numbered L 5730. The following weights are stated in the Cartier Archives. Diamonds stated to weigh 9.53 carats, 102 diamonds in total, very bright and lively. 42 calibré-cut sapphires, stated to weigh 11.10 carats, well matched, strong saturation of colour, typical inclusions visible with magnification, nicks, chips and abraded facet junctions. Two small cabochon sapphires for the eye and the beak, well matched. 42 calibré-cut rubies stated to weigh 10.35 carats, pinkish red in colour, medium saturation, typical inclusions visible with magnification, nicks, few chips and slight abrasions to facet junctions. 42 calibré-cut emeralds, stated to weigh 7.30 carats, medium green, medium light saturation, inclusions visible to the naked eye and with magnification, nicks, chips, slight abrasions to facet junctions. Cabochon citrine in beak moderately strong yellow, medium saturation. Flamingo clip measuring approximately 92mm in height, weighing approximately 58.1 grams. Scratches to mount consistent with age and wear. Pin to reverse slightly bent. Accompanied by fitted case made by Cartier after 1987 sale at Sotheby's. In good condition. Please note the stones for this jewel were provided by the Duke and Duchess of Windsor.
"In response to your inquiry, we are pleased to provide you with a general report of the condition of the property described above. Since we are not professional conservators or restorers, we urge you to consult with a restorer or conservator of your choice who will be better able to provide a detailed, professional report. Prospective buyers should inspect each lot to satisfy themselves as to condition and must understand that any statement made by Sotheby's is merely a subjective, qualified opinion. Prospective buyers should also refer to any Important Notices regarding this sale, which are printed in the Sale Catalogue.
NOTWITHSTANDING THIS REPORT OR ANY DISCUSSIONS CONCERNING A LOT, ALL LOTS ARE OFFERED AND SOLD AS IS" IN ACCORDANCE WITH THE CONDITIONS OF BUSINESS PRINTED IN THE SALE CATALOGUE."

Together with the panther bracelet Jeanne Toussaint was also involved in the creations of this magnificent large flamingo clip, the designer being Peter Lemarchand.  The Duchess of Windsor is known to have worn this brooch soon after acquiring it, when she is recorded in a photograph with the Duke wearing it as they arrived at the Ritz Hotel, Madrid, on his forty-sixth birthday on 23rd June 1940. [Michael Bloch, Operation Willi, 2nd p. of photographs after p.82].

From Cartier's archives it is apparent that in order to make this jewel, the Duchess had several of her own pieces unmounted so that the stones could be re-used in this clip; jewels used included a necklace and four bracelets to supply the 42 calibré-cut rubies, the same number of sapphires and emeralds and 102 diamonds that make up this piece.

Peter Lemarchand was a true designer in every sense of the word, taking directly from nature their salient elements, he had a true awareness of natural surroundings and wild animals.  He spent much of his time painting in his Montparnasse studio.  In 1948 Toussaint paid tribute to him commenting on, "our common love for animals and birds"; the creation of Cartier's 'Great Cats' and amazing jewelled birds came out of this shared vision.  Naturalistic jewels became gradually more stylised in the mid 1940's.  This flamingo is depicted at rest with one leg up and the feathers created from calibré-cut emeralds, rubies and sapphires are curved and raised, more three-dimensional rather than flat.

"Lemarchand's animal figures have vigour, plasticity and an inimitable sense of movement – thanks it must be said, to the virtuoso technique of the Cartier craftsmen who executed the designs and who could capture the articulate litheness of a great cat or emphasise the tail of a bird of paradise with a flexible platinum setting...." [Hans Nadelhoffer page 233].  He even took inspiration from the Egyptian collections at the Louvre including bronzes of the feline Egyptian goddess Bastet.