THE GEM-SET AND DIAMOND CROSS BRACELET, CARTIER, 1934-1944

The chain bracelet spectacle-set with circular- and brilliant-cut diamonds, suspending nine gem-set Latin crosses, to a navette-shaped clasp, length approximately 190mm, signed Cartier, French assay and maker's marks.



Comprising: A cross set with calibré-cut sapphires, emeralds, one similarly cut ruby and a baguette diamond, inscribed and dated: Our marriage Cross Wallis 3.VI.37 David, slightly imperfect.



A cross set with calibré-cut aquamarines, inscribed and dated: God save the King for Wallis. 16.VII.36.



A cross set with calibré-cut amethyst, inscribed and dated: Appendectomy Cross Wallis 31-VIII-44 David.



A cross set with calibré-cut emeralds, inscribed and dated: X Ray Cross Wallis – David 10.7.36.



A cross set with baguette diamonds, inscribed and dated: The Kings (sic) Cross God bless WE 1-3-36.



A cross set with calibré-cut rubies, inscribed and dated : Wallis – David St Wolfgang 22-9-3.



A cross set with calibré-cut yellow sapphires, inscribed and dated : "Get Well" Cross Wallis Sept. 1944 David.



A cross set with calibré-cut sapphires, inscribed and dated : Wallis – David 23-6-35.



A cross in platinum, inscribed and dated: WE are too (sic) 25-XI-34.

Cf: Sotheby's, The Jewels of the Duchess of Windsor, Geneva, Thursday 2nd April 1987, Lot 31.

Cf: Suzy Menkes, The Windsor Style, London, 1987

Cf: Diana Cooper, The Light of Common Day, London, 1959

Cf: Philip Ziegler, Diana Cooper, London, 1981

Cf: A King's Story, The Memoirs of H.R.H. The Duke of Windsor, K.G, London, 1953, chapter entitled The Heart Has Its Reasons.

Cf: Michael Bloch, The Duke of Windsor's War, London, 1982

Cf: Charles Higham, The Secret Life of the Duchess of Windsor, USA, 1988

Cf: Robert Rhodes James, editor, Chips and the Diaries of Sir Henry Channon, London, 1967

Signed Cartier to underside of catch to bracelet. French assay marks for platinum to 'marriage cross', Cartier maker's mark to aquamarine cross. Estimated total diamond weight in bracelet approximately 3.50 - 4.00 carats, of mixed colours and clarities, one chipped; seven baguette diamonds weighing approximately 2.00 -2.20 carats, estimated colour G-I, estimated clarity VS on average. 8 calibré-cut emeralds weighing approximately 1.60 - 1.80 carats in total, medium green, medium saturation, typical inclusions visible to the naked eye and with magnification, abraded facet junctions and nicks, one emerald to bottom of 'marriage cross' cracked with minor losses. Seven calibré-cut rubies, estimated to weigh approximately 2.80 - 3.00 carats, moderately dark pinkish red with strong saturation, heavily abraded. Eight calibré-cut sapphires dark blue, strong saturation of colour, heavily abraded. Six yellow sapphires weighing approximately 2.40 - 2.60 carats in total, very light yellow, heavily abraded. Six amethyst dark purple, well matched in colour, slightly abraded, nicks. Six aquamarines light blue, well matched in colour, nicks and abrasions. Secure clasp, safety catch to underside. Mounts with scratches consistent with age and wear. Accompanied by fitted case made by Cartier after 1987 sale at Sotheby's. Bracelet length approximately 190mm, each cross approximately 19mm - 22mm in length, and between 13mm and 14mm wide. In good condition.
"In response to your inquiry, we are pleased to provide you with a general report of the condition of the property described above. Please note that colour, clarity and weight of gemstones are statements of opinion only and not statements of fact by Sotheby's. We do not guarantee, and are not responsible for any certificate from a gemological laboratory that may accompany the property. We do not guarantee that watches are in working order. Prospective buyers should inspect each lot to satisfy themselves as to condition and must understand that any statement made by Sotheby's is merely a subjective, qualified opinion. Prospective buyers should also refer to refer to any Important Notices regarding this sale, which are printed in the Sale Catalogue, in particular to the Notice regarding the treatment and condition of gemstones and to the Notice regarding import of Burmese jadeite and rubies into the US.
NOTWITHSTANDING THIS REPORT OR ANY DISCUSSIONS CONCERNING A LOT, ALL LOTS ARE OFFERED AND SOLD "AS IS" IN ACCORDANCE WITH THE CONDITIONS OF BUSINESS PRINTED IN THE SALE CATALOGUE."

This jewel was worn regularly by the Duchess of Windsor as can be seen in many contemporary photographs; most notably on the occasion of her wedding.  It became widely known at the time of the controversial Nahlin cruise in the summer of 1936 from a number of photographs which appeared in the international press.  These images clearly showing Wallis Simpson wearing the crosses around one of her wrists, and these caused intense speculation as to the true nature of the couple's relationship.  Lady Diana Cooper, a member of the King's party on that occasion, remembered that both the King and Mrs Simpson were seen wearing bejewelled crosses. After joining the royal party along the Dalmatian coast, she wrote to her friend, Conrad Russell: 'We... were greeted by the young King radiant in health, wearing spick-and-span little shorts, straw sandals and two [sic] crucifixes on a chain round his neck...' [Diana Cooper, The Light of Common Day, London, 1959, p. 175; Philip Ziegler, Diana Cooper, London, 1981, P. 176].

In February 1937, by which time Mrs Simpson was staying at Cannes and the Duke at the Schloss Enzesfeld in Austria, she wrote to him enclosing 'proofs of [Cecil] Beaton's article that is going to appear in US Vogue.  See about the crosses and the chain in the article,' [Letters, P.227].  The piece duly appeared [1st July, 1937, pp. 32 – 35], but only after their wedding on 3rd June and with a version in which the crosses were no longer mentioned.

The following notes refer to the inscriptions engraved upon each cross.

Our marriage cross: The Duke of Windsor and Wallis Simpson were married by the Rev. R. A. Jardine on 3rd June 1937, at the Chateau de Candé, Monts (Indre et Loire), France.  The guests included Fern Bedaux, Herman Rogers and his wife, Katherine, Major E.D (Fruity) and Lady Alexandra Metcalfe, Mrs D. Buchanan Merryman (Mrs Simpson's Aunt Bessie), Dudley Forwood.

The Duchess in her memoirs remembered their wedding day: 'Somehow the preparations got done.  Mainbocher made my trousseau. ~From his sketches I chose for my wedding gown a simple dress of blue crepe satin.  Reboux made a hat to match.  I asked Constance Spry, the prominent London florist, to come to Candé to do the flowers... [it] was beautifully warm and sunny.  Herman Rogers gave me away, and it must have been with a profound sense of relief that he saw me become the responsibility of another.

'Here I shall say only that it was a supremely happy moment.  All I had been through, the hurts I had suffered were forgotten; by evening, David and I were on our way to Australia.' [The Heart Has Its Reasons, pp.297/9].

God Save the King for Wallis: This inscription refers to an incident on 16th July 1936, when King Edward VIII was riding in a procession on Constitution Hill after presenting new colours to the Guards.  He was threatened by an Irish journalist named Macmahon with a loaded revolver.  Mrs Simpson mentioned the fact, but only in passing and after giving details of her own health [see 4 below],in a letter to Aunt Bessie on 1st August : 'The shot [sic] at HM and the upset summer plans have all been very disturbing.' [Letters p.211]

Appendectomy Cross: The Duchess of Windsor, who in the spring and summer of 1944 had been ailing for some months, left Nassau and was subsequently admitted to the Roosevelt Hospital, New York, where she underwent an operation for appendicitis with complications on 31st August [Michael Bloch, The Duke of Windsor's War, London, 1982, p.342; and mentioned in Charles Higham, The Secret Life of the Duchess of Windsor, USA, 1988, page 359].

X Ray Cross: This cross was presented only a few days before King Edward VIII was threatened with a loaded revolver [see 2 above]. Mrs Simpson wrote from Fort Belvedere on 1st August 1936, to her Aunt Bessie giving details of her state of health: 'I had myself X-rayed from head to toes, they found a healed ulcer scar.  I have an awfully good doctor and haven't had any trouble for 6 weeks.  Have a diet – not too bad a one – the doctor is a German.  I have gained some weight also, and feel better than I have for ages.' [Letters, p. 211].

The Kings Cross God bless WE: This inscription probably refers to the date of Mrs Simpson's departure for Paris on 1st March 1936, when, after six exhausting weeks of the new reign, she sought, with her friend 'Foxy' Gwynne, a few days relaxation.  It may be construed from the sentiment expressed on the charm that the King, still in mourning for his father and heavily burdened with unfamiliar duties, was not exactly pleased at her disappearance.  For her part, Mrs Simpson seems to have been equally exasperated with the King, writing to her Aunt Bessie on 8th March that, although she had been incited to go on from Paris to Monte Carlo, 'that little King insists I return and I might as well with the telephone about 4 times daily – not much rest.'  Meanwhile, apparently upon the initiative of Ernest Simpson, Mrs Simpson's absence gave the two men an opportunity of speaking frankly about their respective roles concerning her.  At a meeting which is thought to have taken place during that first week in March, 'a private arrangement was reached between the King and Ernest, whereby Ernest agreed to put an end to his marriage with Wallis provided that the King promised to remain faithful to her and look after her.' [Letters, pp. 188-190].

On a lighter note, the inscription brings to mind a contemporary take about Mrs. Simpson 'taking a taxi on her now famous journey to Scotland.  "King's Cross", she is reported to have said.  "I'm sorry, lady," answered the driver.' [Robert Rhodes James, editor, Chips and the Diaries of Sir Henry Channon, London, 1967, p. 79, 11 November, 1936].

St Wolfgang: This cross is similar to another in the original sale in 1987, lot 38.  This belonged to the Duke and was a necklace with three cross pendants. One of these was a sapphire set Latin cross Pendant, inscribed and dated on the reverse: 22.9.35 David - Wallis St Wolfgang, signed: Cartier, Paris; another set with rubies inscribed and dated: 23.6.35 for his birthday gift from Wallis.

The Prince of Wales was joined on a two month holiday by a few close friends including Wallis Simpson, his party leaving from Cannes on 9th September via a number of destinations, returning on 2nd October to Paris and thence by aeroplane to Windsor.  According to Mrs Simpson, who had written to her aunt from the Carlton Hotel in Cannes on 7th September, they expected to 'leave Monday for Budapest, 1 day on the train and 2 nights.  We shall stay in Budapest until the week-end and then go to some place on a lake for the week-end and then I think motor to Vienna perhaps a touch of the Austrian Tyrol and Paris...' [Letters, p.157]. On the way, between 20th and 24th September, 1935, they stayed not far from Salzburg at the small town of St. Wolfgang [A King's Story, p. 423]. Why the visit to this place should have been remarkable enough for Prince Edward and Mrs Simpson to commemorate it with gifts of crosses to each other is unknown. The reason, as for so much of the jewellery in the Duchess's collection, was clearly very personal; indeed, the holiday may well have marked a decisive moment in their relationship and, as Michael Bloch has noted [Letters, P. 159], when the Prince of Wales returned to England, 'the idea of marriage to her had become a fixed and passionate desire.'

Get Well Cross: See note for Appendectomy Cross above.

Wallis - David 23-6-35: This cross is similar to another in the original sale in 1987, lot 38. Edward's pendant designed as a Latin cross one set with rubies, the reverse inscribed and dated: David-Wallis 23.6.35: was Mrs Simpson's gift to Edward the Prince of Wales, to commemorate his forty-first birthday.

WE are too: The inscription 'We are too 25-XI-34' is a punning allusion to Mrs Simpson and the Prince of Wales' (WE) feelings for one another: WE (Wallis and Edward) are also in love, and WE too are in love.  This is of particular significance as the Prince's brother, George, Duke of Kent, was married a few days later, on 29 November, 1934, to Princess Marina of Greece, at Westminster Abbey.