THE GOLD, RUBY, TURQUOISE AND DIAMOND PURSE, VAN CLEEF & ARPELS, NEW YORK, 1942

The circular hinged cover set at the centre with a flower head motif set with circular-cut rubies and a circular-cut diamond at the centre, within a border of oval cabochon turquoise, opening to reveal a hinged expandable top to the mesh purse, length approximately 95mm, diameter of cover approximately 29mm, signed Van Cleef & Arpels N.Y. and indistinctly numbered.

Cf: Sotheby's, The Jewels of the Duchess of Windsor, Geneva, Friday 3rd April 1987, Lot 128.

Mrs Jane Donahue's jewels possibly gifts referred to in the text were lots 41, 148, 175 and 251 in the above sale catalogue.

Stamped 14K for 14 carat gold. Indistinctly numbered 3220. Turquoise well matched in size. Rubies well matched in size and colour, moderately strong red, medium saturation, typical inclusions visible with magnification, nicks. Diamond to centre bright and lively. Opening mechanism smooth with secure closure. Fine mesh in good condition. Scratches consistent with age and wear. Weighing approximately 80.1 grams. Accompanied by fitted case made by Cartier after 1987 sale at Sotheby's. In good condition.
"In response to your inquiry, we are pleased to provide you with a general report of the condition of the property described above. Please note that colour, clarity and weight of gemstones are statements of opinion only and not statements of fact by Sotheby's. We do not guarantee, and are not responsible for any certificate from a gemological laboratory that may accompany the property. We do not guarantee that watches are in working order. Prospective buyers should inspect each lot to satisfy themselves as to condition and must understand that any statement made by Sotheby's is merely a subjective, qualified opinion. Prospective buyers should also refer to refer to any Important Notices regarding this sale, which are printed in the Sale Catalogue, in particular to the Notice regarding the treatment and condition of gemstones and to the Notice regarding import of Burmese jadeite and rubies into the US.
NOTWITHSTANDING THIS REPORT OR ANY DISCUSSIONS CONCERNING A LOT, ALL LOTS ARE OFFERED AND SOLD "AS IS" IN ACCORDANCE WITH THE CONDITIONS OF BUSINESS PRINTED IN THE SALE CATALOGUE."

According to the archives of Van Cleef & Arpels, New York, this purse, numbered 3320, was made in 1942 and purchased the following year in 1943 by Mrs Jane Donahue.

Based in New York, Mrs Jessie Woolworth Donahue (1886-1971), was one of Frank W. Woolworth's three daughters. She was the last surviving daughter and heiress to the Woolworth fortune, which mainly derived from her father's well known chain of stores.  Jessie, known also as Jane, was an intimate friend of the Duchess of Windsor.  In 1918 she married James Donahue, who sadly gambled most of his life away before committing suicide in 1931.  They had two sons; one of whom, James (1915-1966) also known as Jimmy, was a friend and constant companion of the Duke and Duchess in the 1950's.

Being a great patron of Van Cleef & Arpels in Paris, Mrs Donahue was instrumental in the firm establishing a branch in New York.  Several items were to be found in the Duchess of Windsor's collection that were located in the Van Cleef archives as being purchased by Mrs James Donahue; most were by Van Cleef & Arpels and were all purchased in November or December of the year specified for each jewel, in this case 1942.  It therefore can be assumed that these jewels including this purse, an invisibly-set sapphire ring dated 1950, a fancy link bracelet, 1955, a tinted rock crystal reverse intaglio tie clip, 1951 and a Movado travelling watch, 1950 were all Christmas presents to the Duchess either from Mrs Donahue or her son.