Diamond bangle-bracelet, Cartier, France, circa 1930

The hinged bangle studded with 140 old European-cut diamonds weighing approximately 30.00 carats, mounted in platinum, internal circumference approximately 5½ inches, signed Cartier, Made in France, maker's mark, French assay marks.

The mounting with scratching and nicking throughout due to regular wear. Signed Cartier on the rim near the hinge; indistinctly numbered on female end of clasp, (possibly 71278). Assay marks and maker's mark on tongue clasp. The diamonds are approximately H-K color, VS-SI clarity; a couple examples chipped. Please note that internal circumference of the bangle is approximately 5½ inches.
In response to your inquiry, we are pleased to provide you with a general report of the condition of the property described above. Since we are not professional conservators or restorers, we urge you to consult with a restorer or conservator of your choice who will be better able to provide a detailed, professional report. Prospective buyers should inspect each lot to satisfy themselves as to condition and must understand that any statement made by Sotheby's is merely a subjective qualified opinion. Illustrations in the catalogue may not be actual size. Prospective purchasers are reminded that, unless the catalogue description specifically states that a stone is natural, we have assumed that some form of treatment may have been used and that such treatment may not be permanent. Our presale estimates reflect this assumption.
NOTWITHSTANDING THIS REPORT OR ANY DISCUSSIONS CONCERNING CONDITION OF A LOT, ALL LOTS ARE OFFERED AND SOLD "AS IS" IN ACCORDANCE WITH THE CONDITIONS OF SALE PRINTED IN THE CATALOGUE.

This bracelet by Cartier displays a luminosity and brightness resulting from the exclusive use of diamonds and platinum, two of the most noble and enduring materials to be found in any jeweler's repertoire. It is noted in Platinum by Cartier, that "Cartier continued to use it (platinum) for the top of his line...These were fabulous creations...These inventions were bound for those clients who had no need to fear for the period and its threats of penury..."  The economic crisis that followed the stock market crash of 1929 might have limited some jewelers, but Cartier used platinum to define the look of their jewels. An outstanding example from this period is the pair of platinum, rock crystal and diamond bracelets made by Cartier in 1930 for the Hollywood actress Gloria Swanson, which clearly reflect a preference for volume, boldness and dramatic effect. The fashion of wearing thick, strap bracelets of  "white-on-white" (platinum and diamonds) was certainly a trend in the 1920's, however in the years following the Paris Exhibition of 1925, the bangle or cuff form begins to emerge with a renewed vigor.