14 karat gold, nephrite and plique-à-jour enamel chain, Tiffany & Co., Designed in the studio of Louis Comfort Tiffany, circa 1915

The long chain interspersed with 9 collet-set cabochon nephrites, and 18 openwork spacers decorated with green and blue plique-à-jour enamel, length 22½ inches, signed Tiffany & Co., together with an art nouveau gold locket monogrammed JMH, also engraved on reverse with floral motifs.

Locket contains 2 glazed compartments, one containing a photograph. Some discoloration in the crevices of the engraving detail, but in good condition overall. Plique-a-jour enamel in the chain is in good condition and the nephrite is a deep green, mottled and semi-opaque. Signed Tiffany & Co to frame at reverse of nephrite-set collet in pendant.
In response to your inquiry, we are pleased to provide you with a general report of the condition of the property described above. Since we are not professional conservators or restorers, we urge you to consult with a restorer or conservator of your choice who will be better able to provide a detailed, professional report. Prospective buyers should inspect each lot to satisfy themselves as to condition and must understand that any statement made by Sotheby's is merely a subjective qualified opinion. Illustrations in the catalogue may not be actual size. Prospective purchasers are reminded that, unless the catalogue description specifically states that a stone is natural, we have assumed that some form of treatment may have been used and that such treatment may not be permanent. Our presale estimates reflect this assumption.
NOTWITHSTANDING THIS REPORT OR ANY DISCUSSIONS CONCERNING CONDITION OF A LOT, ALL LOTS ARE OFFERED AND SOLD "AS IS" IN ACCORDANCE WITH THE CONDITIONS OF SALE PRINTED IN THE CATALOGUE.

The present chain, designed in the Studio of Louis Comfort Tiffany, embodies the important period of Tiffany's work following his move to the position of artistic director of Tiffany & Co. in 1907.  The Arts & Crafts Movement of the late 19^th century had inspired a return to simple jewelry designs that featured the use of semi-precious stones such as the jade used in this chain. The circular plique-à-jour enamel links of spiral motif are a variation of a Celtic or Gothic design element that appears on a Tiffany vase dated 1911, formerly from the Collection of Lillian Nassau Ltd., (cf. Sotheby's New York, June 5, 1996 Sale #6874, Lot 40).  Examples of Tiffany's use of jade can be seen in other jewels from this period (cf. an oval jade and enamel necklace illustrated in Louis Comfort Tiffany at Tiffany & Co., John Loring, p. 58, where it is noted: "Its archival photograph is labeled F196, indicating that it was made in mid-1914;  cf. Also, a jadeite and seed-pearl bib necklace with an archival photo labeled J973 indicating that the necklace was made circa 1909, Ibid).  Although the locket suspended from the chain offered here is not by Tiffany, the chain itself was designed to suspend either a watch or a jewel.