Emerald and diamond brooch, David Webb, 1970s

Designed as a stylised Maltese cross, the cabochon pear-shaped emerald set within a border of pear-shaped diamonds, to the single- and brilliant-cut stone surrounds, mounted in platinum, signed David Webb.

Stamped Pt 950 for platinum and signed Webb. Total diamond weight approximately 35.00 carats, overall G-I colour, VS-SI clarity, good brilliance. Emerald measuring approximately 20.78 x 14.15 x 7.00mm, depth very difficult to gauge accurately, estimated to weigh approximately 13.00 - 15.00 carats. Typical crystal inclusions, some minor surface reaching noticeable with the aid of a 10 lens, otherwise surface smooth. Normal signs of wear to the mount, scratches consistent with use, marks of solder repair to the back. In good condition.
"In response to your inquiry, we are pleased to provide you with a general report of the condition of the property described above. Please note that colour, clarity and weight of gemstones are statements of opinion only and not statements of fact by Sotheby's. We do not guarantee, and are not responsible for any certificate from a gemological laboratory that may accompany the property. We do not guarantee that watches are in working order. Prospective buyers should inspect each lot to satisfy themselves as to condition and must understand that any statement made by Sotheby's is merely a subjective, qualified opinion. Prospective buyers should also refer to refer to any Important Notices regarding this sale, which are printed in the Sale Catalogue, in particular to the Notice regarding the treatment and condition of gemstones and to the Notice regarding import of Burmese jadeite and rubies into the US.
NOTWITHSTANDING THIS REPORT OR ANY DISCUSSIONS CONCERNING A LOT, ALL LOTS ARE OFFERED AND SOLD "AS IS" IN ACCORDANCE WITH THE CONDITIONS OF BUSINESS PRINTED IN THE SALE CATALOGUE."

The Maltese cross or cross of St John motif is named after the white cross worn as an emblem on the black robes of the Knights Hospitallers, a military and religious order that grew from the Hospital of St John of Jerusalem and was established in the 11th century to care for pilgrims to the Holy Land. Its headquarters later moved to the island of Malta. This very special cross with indented terminals was a successful design used by some New York-based jewellers like Fulco di Verdura and David Webb (1926-1975) during the 1940-1970 period. Webb produced a bold version of it in many different sizes and colours. He founded the company along with his partner Nina Silberstein in the late 1940s and eventually moved to new premises at 7, East 57th Street in New York City. Webb was especially known for creating colourful animal bangles and his innovative use of enamel. He also designed unique pieces which were given as gifts of state by several White House administrations, including those of Kennedy, Johnson and Nixon.