Fine emerald and diamond ring, Marchak, 1950s

Of conical design, centring on a cabochon emerald to a rope work surround set with cushion-shaped, circular-, single- and square-cut diamonds, mounted in platinum and yellow gold, size 51, signed Marchak Paris and numbered, French assay and maker's marks.

Cf: Marguerite de Cerval, Marchak, Paris, 2006, pages 35, 108 and 112 for examples of 1960s gem-set rings and original gouache images by Marchak and similar designs using cabochon stones and rope work.

Stamped with French assay marks for platinum and 18 carat gold. Numbered 981 to inside of band. Emerald a medium green with typical inclusions visible to the naked eye, some reaching surface minor scratches and nicks visible with magnification. Estimated total diamond weight approximately 5.50 carats, generally I-K colour, SI-I clarity. Band with minor scratches commensurate with age and wear. In good condition.
"In response to your inquiry, we are pleased to provide you with a general report of the condition of the property described above. Please note that colour, clarity and weight of gemstones are statements of opinion only and not statements of fact by Sotheby's. We do not guarantee, and are not responsible for any certificate from a gemological laboratory that may accompany the property. We do not guarantee that watches are in working order. Prospective buyers should inspect each lot to satisfy themselves as to condition and must understand that any statement made by Sotheby's is merely a subjective, qualified opinion. Prospective buyers should also refer to refer to any Important Notices regarding this sale, which are printed in the Sale Catalogue, in particular to the Notice regarding the treatment and condition of gemstones and to the Notice regarding import of Burmese jadeite and rubies into the US.
NOTWITHSTANDING THIS REPORT OR ANY DISCUSSIONS CONCERNING A LOT, ALL LOTS ARE OFFERED AND SOLD "AS IS" IN ACCORDANCE WITH THE CONDITIONS OF BUSINESS PRINTED IN THE SALE CATALOGUE."

In 1878, Joseph Marchak (1854-1918) opened a workshop in Kiev and was quickly known as the leading jeweller in Kiev. In less than 20 years he becomes one the most famous and talented jeweller of the Russian Empire. Also known as the 'Cartier of Kiev', Marchak excels in enamelled objects, jewels and silversmith, and is undisputably the rival of the renowned Fabergé. They firm takes part in the Exposition Universelle of Chicago in 1893 and the Exposition Universelle of Antwerp in 1894. At the time of the Russian Revolution his son, Alexandre, with his family fled the country and in 1920 opens a store at 4 rue de la Paix in Paris. In association with Robert Linzeler they develop the Marchak style. In 1925, they creativity and talent are rewarded by the Grand Prix des Arts Decoratifs.  Highly coloured jewellery earned him a large following among Americans and Europeans. His vanity and cigarette cases of Oriental inspiration were also particulary sought after by connoisseurs.  His next partner, Jacques Verger who runs the company until 1987, and the chief designer, Alexandre Diringer gave a new stylistic and commercial energy to the firm during the 1940-1965 period. Alexandre Marchak dies in 1976 and the company shuts down in 1987. In the 1990's, Daniel Marchac, great grand-son of the founder, registrers Marchak as a trademark. The store is nowadays located  at 41 rue Richelieu, Paris. 

This emerald ring and the ring sold as lot *** are both very fine exemple of colourfull and tastefull cocktail ring from the 1950s.