GOLD, ENAMEL, IVORY AND DIAMOND PENDANT, CIRCA 1900

Designed as a sirène, her body of carved ivory, holding a laurel branch in her right hand and a lyre highlighted with rose-cut diamonds to her left, the background of plique-à-jour enamel representing the sky and the sea, framed by a pair of stylised herons, pendant bail. 

Cf: Alastair Duncan, The Paris Salons, 1895-1914, Jewellery I & II: The Designers A-K, & L-Z, Antique Collectors Club, 1994; Pg 36 for an image of an Archambaut buckle with a heron heads; Pg 203, for an image of a Dubret passant collar depicting a siren; Pg 254 for an image of a Fouquet pendant decorated with seaweed and an ivory figure; Pg 266-67, for images of Foy jewels with ivory figures. Jewellery II, Pg 255 for an image of Vever's 'Le Reveil' jewel.

No marks. Heavy piece weighing approximately 46.6 grams. Light scratches to the enamel near the mermaid's tail. Some fine hairline cracks to plique-à-jour enamel visible to reverse. Light tarnishing to the top of the lyre. Lead solder join visible to the base of the laurel sprig. Light scratches to the reverse of the pendant consistent with age and wear. In good condition.
"In response to your inquiry, we are pleased to provide you with a general report of the condition of the property described above. Please note that colour, clarity and weight of gemstones are statements of opinion only and not statements of fact by Sotheby's. We do not guarantee, and are not responsible for any certificate from a gemological laboratory that may accompany the property. We do not guarantee that watches are in working order. Prospective buyers should inspect each lot to satisfy themselves as to condition and must understand that any statement made by Sotheby's is merely a subjective, qualified opinion. Prospective buyers should also refer to refer to any Important Notices regarding this sale, which are printed in the Sale Catalogue, in particular to the Notice regarding the treatment and condition of gemstones and to the Notice regarding import of Burmese jadeite and rubies into the US.
NOTWITHSTANDING THIS REPORT OR ANY DISCUSSIONS CONCERNING A LOT, ALL LOTS ARE OFFERED AND SOLD "AS IS" IN ACCORDANCE WITH THE CONDITIONS OF BUSINESS PRINTED IN THE SALE CATALOGUE."

This pendant is characterised by many of the motifs and techniques which were popular with French jewellers working in the early 20th Century, during the Art Nouveau movement. During this period of design, jewellers were heavily influenced by the work of Symbolist painters and fine artists.  Pieces jewellers designed and created were invested with deeper, metaphorical meanings, derived from naturalistic and mythological sources.

The female form was a much repeated motif in jewels of this period.  The female figure of the siren, which is central to this pendant is carved in ivory, was a particularly popular Symbolist image and can be seen in contemporary works by Joe Descomps, Henri Dubret and George Fouquet. The siren's power to draw ships onto the rocks, with their sweet music, symbolic of the power women hold over men. Other pieces by important French jewellers, such as Henri Vever and René Foy, can also be seen to use ivory carvings of female figures; 'Le Reveil' by Henri Vever (Musée des Arts Decoratifs, Paris) is perhaps the most well known of these jewels.  

Potential bidders who intend to export this lot are advised that permits may be required for import in certain countries. If you are interested in this lot please contact the Jewellery Department before bidding