Art Nouveau Gold, Diamond, enamel and glass Brooch, Lalique, circa 1900

The stylized insect decorated with a scarab beetle of pale blue opalescent glass above a calf's-head-cut diamond measuring approximately 15.3 by 18.3 by 5.1 mm., within a modified navette-shaped frame with fin terminals applied with opalescent enamel in shades of blue, signed Lalique. 

Diamond is approximately E-F color, SI clarity. The scarab has a tiny chip to one corner. There are a few losses to enamel. Signed on the back on one tail fin Lalique in block letters.
In response to your inquiry, we are pleased to provide you with a general report of the condition of the property described above. Since we are not professional conservators or restorers, we urge you to consult with a restorer or conservator of your choice who will be better able to provide a detailed, professional report. Prospective buyers should inspect each lot to satisfy themselves as to condition and must understand that any statement made by Sotheby's is merely a subjective qualified opinion. Illustrations in the catalogue may not be actual size. Prospective purchasers are reminded that, unless the catalogue description specifically states that a stone is natural, we have assumed that some form of treatment may have been used and that such treatment may not be permanent. Our presale estimates reflect this assumption.
NOTWITHSTANDING THIS REPORT OR ANY DISCUSSIONS CONCERNING CONDITION OF A LOT, ALL LOTS ARE OFFERED AND SOLD "AS IS" IN ACCORDANCE WITH THE CONDITIONS OF SALE PRINTED IN THE CATALOGUE.

For other examples of jewels by Lalique in which a large stone sits at the center of the design, see Henri Vever, French Jewelry of the Nineteenth Century, translated from the French by Katherine Purcell, pp. 1233, 1252 and 1255. 

Born in 1860, the son of a Parisian merchant, Rene Lalique studied design in school and at the age of sixteen became apprenticed to the jeweler Louis Aucoc.  He subsequently spent two years studying design in England at Sydenham College and once back in Paris worked as a freelance designer for various jewelry manufacturers such as Vever and Boucheron.  Lalique became an independent jeweler in 1885 taking over the workshop of Jules Destapes on Place Gaillon and continued to produce traditional designs set mainly with diamonds.  Lalique's first independent public exhibition came in 1894 at the Salon de la Société des Artistes Français and it was at about this time that Lalique's jewels began to demonstrate the sculptural, sinuous elements of Art Nouveau.  His experimental techniques and designs combined precious and non-precious materials such as carved ivory, horn, glass and enamel in combination with diamonds, opals and pearls.  Lalique's jewels embodied nature seen through a Symbolist's eyes with portrayals of exotic hothouse blooms, withered stems and thistles, bats, serpents, dragonflies and metamorphic images of women.  His designs for the fin-de-siecle tragedian Sarah Bernhardt furthered his public appeal and brought him commissions from around the world.  His greatest success came with the Paris Exposition Universelle in 1900, which prompted many poor quality imitations of his style and caused Lalique to shift his focus to glassmaking.  By 1912 Lalique had abandoned jewelry altogether.