Lot 375A
  • 375A

An important ruby and diamond bracelet , probably Van Cleef & Arpels, circa 1935

Estimate
305,000 - 425,000 CHF
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Description

The supple bracelet composed of three rows of cushion-shaped and oval rubies, interspersed with geometric plaques set with circular-cut and baguette diamonds, to an openwork clasp designed as a stylised buckle and similarly-set with diamonds, length approximately 180mm, unsigned.

Condition

Unsigned. Rubies estimated to weigh 68.00 - 70.00 carats, a deep purplish to pinkish red hue, with strong saturation of colour, various sizes, oval and cushion-shaped, well matched in colour overall, typical inclusions visible with a 10x lens. Estimated total diamond weight approximately 10.00 - 12.00 carats, estimated colour H-J, estimated clarity VS-I. Very well articulated. Secure clasp. In very good condition. Accompanied by a case of a similar period, from Janesich, 19. Rue de la Paix, Paris, Monte-Carlo.
"In response to your inquiry, we are pleased to provide you with a general report of the condition of the property described above. Please note that colour, clarity and weight of gemstones are statements of opinion only and not statements of fact by Sotheby's. We do not guarantee, and are not responsible for any certificate from a gemological laboratory that may accompany the property. We do not guarantee that watches are in working order. Prospective buyers should inspect each lot to satisfy themselves as to condition and must understand that any statement made by Sotheby's is merely a subjective, qualified opinion. Prospective buyers should also refer to refer to any Important Notices regarding this sale, which are printed in the Sale Catalogue, in particular to the Notice regarding the treatment and condition of gemstones and to the Notice regarding import of Burmese jadeite and rubies into the US.
NOTWITHSTANDING THIS REPORT OR ANY DISCUSSIONS CONCERNING A LOT, ALL LOTS ARE OFFERED AND SOLD "AS IS" IN ACCORDANCE WITH THE CONDITIONS OF BUSINESS PRINTED IN THE SALE CATALOGUE."

Catalogue Note

The popularity of this type of bracelet amongst the fashionable set of the 1930s is confirmed by the presence of similar examples by Van Cleef & Arpels in the jewellery collections of The Duchess of Windsor and Mme. Hélène Beaumont.  Both of these bracelets and a third were sold at Sotheby's Geneva, respectively on 2nd April 1987, lot 87, 18th May 1994, lot 522 and 17th November 1998, lot 68. 

A fashion periodical Excelsior Modes in 1937 commented on the use and combination of rubies and diamonds, noting what  a fine display they made under artificial light; indeed the gems set in this bracelet with their rich glow, make the perfect jewel to be worn at night.