GOLD, AMETHYST AND ENAMEL HINGED BRACELET, JOHN BROGDEN, 1870s

The centre decorated with a large oval amethyst surrounded by enamel pearls and Gothic decoration in blue and white enamel, on a hinged tapered bracelet highlighted by gold granulation and blue enamel detail, length approximately 160 mm, signed J.B.

Stamped JB to tongue of clasp for John Brogden. Amethyst measuring approximately 37.5mm x 29.0mm x 14.0mm, violetish-purple hue, medium-light tone, distinct banding. Very slightly included. Patches of discolouration and wear to enamel. Slight damage to bezel surrounding centre stone, enamel deficient and gold work dented. Minor scratching to polished surfaces few enamel beadwork chipped consistent with age and wear. Secure closure. In good condition
"In response to your inquiry, we are pleased to provide you with a general report of the condition of the property described above. Please note that colour, clarity and weight of gemstones are statements of opinion only and not statements of fact by Sotheby's. We do not guarantee, and are not responsible for any certificate from a gemological laboratory that may accompany the property. We do not guarantee that watches are in working order. Prospective buyers should inspect each lot to satisfy themselves as to condition and must understand that any statement made by Sotheby's is merely a subjective, qualified opinion. Prospective buyers should also refer to refer to any Important Notices regarding this sale, which are printed in the Sale Catalogue, in particular to the Notice regarding the treatment and condition of gemstones and to the Notice regarding import of Burmese jadeite and rubies into the US.
NOTWITHSTANDING THIS REPORT OR ANY DISCUSSIONS CONCERNING A LOT, ALL LOTS ARE OFFERED AND SOLD "AS IS" IN ACCORDANCE WITH THE CONDITIONS OF BUSINESS PRINTED IN THE SALE CATALOGUE."

Born in 1820, John Brogden was apprenticed to James William Garland in 1834. From 1842 to 1846 he was a partner in the firm Watherston and Brogden of Covent Garden and after Mr J. H. Watherston's retirement in 1864, Brogden continued to run the successful business in Henrietta Street.

By 1867, the taste for archaeological revival jewellery was widespread and John Brogden was a leading British antiquarian jeweller. He was assisted from 1860s by Charlotte Newman, a distinguished jeweller trained in the art of the granulation, who's fine workmanship possibly is illustrated in the bracelet offered here.

First awarded a silver medal at the Paris Universal Exhibition of 1867 for ancient-style gold jewels inspired by the Assyrian's, Egyptian's and Roman's, he went on to design fine Gothic and Russian crosses. Alessandro Castellani was moved to praise his exercises in the classical taste in his report on the 1878 exhibition, where Brogden was awarded a gold medal for his efforts.

As displayed through the hinged bracelet offered here, the bright palette of enamel colours used by J.Brogden by way of decoration is characteristic of his highly intricate gold jewellery.