Why Big Gemstones Are Back in Style

It is not just the Ambanis who have embraced supersized stones for weddings or otherwise. Owning a piece of jewellery sporting a big stone has often been seen as aspirational for women from all walks of life. It is true that excessive bling fell out of fashion for a few years, but tides are turning with women now seeking larger statement pieces for all occasions, inspiring jewellery houses to release more collections featuring larger diamonds and precious stones.

Celebrities have also caught the bling fever. Just take a look at the red carpet earlier this year where the carat count reached record highs at events such as the Oscars and the Met Gala. Large diamonds were not the only stars on the red carpet. At the Oscars, actress Emma Stone took her award in a stunning 30.47-carat octagonal step-cut golden Sri Lankan sapphire while Gabrielle Union made a statement in a 31-carat aquamarine. At the Met Gala, Cardi B donned a stunning 141.71-carat emerald pendant that would give matriarch Nita Ambani a run for her money, while Zendaya and model Kaia Gerber are other young celebrities that have taken a shine to wearing big stones.

There was a time when larger stones were the exclusive domain of royals and the nobility. Often regarded as symbols of wealth and power, they were frequently encased on tiaras and other items during the European medieval and Renaissance periods. In the 19th and 20th centuries, it was the Indian maharajas who were most renowned for their supersized jewels which showcased the covetable Golconda diamonds and included items such as the legendary Patiala necklace which featured 2,930 diamonds weighing nearly 1,000 carats.

The democratisation of diamonds didn’t happen until the early 20th century when the advancement of mining and production brought larger, sparkling gems to the wealthy and famous including celebrities such as Elizabeth Taylor. The actress was infamous for her showstopping collection and was frequently gifted larger diamonds and other stones from her string of husbands, such as the 63-carat Taylor-Burton diamond and the 33.19-carat Elizabeth Taylor Diamond, formerly known as the Krupp Diamond.

Today’s celebrities are now following in Taylor’s footsteps by embracing larger diamonds especially when it comes to investment pieces such as engagement rings.

“In 2024, the visibility of celebrity engagement rings has reached new heights, fueling the trend for larger diamonds. Hailey Bieber’s upgraded oval-shaped engagement ring has made headlines, with reports indicating that her new diamond is a full carat larger than her previous one. High-profile influencer weddings have further propelled this trend; notably, former Miss Universe Olivia Culpo’s whose engagement ring featured an impressive eight-carat oval-shaped diamond,” says Kathleen Smith, Associate Specialist, Jewellery Department at Sotheby’s New York.

While Taylor famously said “big girls need big diamonds,” it’s not just the big (or famous) that are coveting larger gems. More women have started to incorporate bigger stones into their daily jewellery wardrobes, fuelling a trend for more wearable pieces such as the perfectly matched pair of 18.38-carat white D-grade, flawless diamonds which will go under the hammer in Sotheby’s Sealed (19-27 September). Not yet mounted, these round brilliant cut diamonds offer the chance for the discerning owner to choose a bespoke setting that perfectly reflects their personal style.

“Traditionally, large diamonds were predominantly featured in engagement rings, which are often seen as one-time, significant investments. As tastes have evolved, people are increasingly choosing to express their style and status through a broader range of jewellery items,” says Smith.

While celebrities tend to favour styles that are more elaborate, big stones also work well on essential styles that defy trends. Experts suggest choosing wearable and classic designs as the basis for their larger stones, such as diamond studs or a solitaire pendant which can be layered with other pieces or worn on its own for a bolder look.

The shape of the stone should also be considered when you’re investing in bigger sizes. “In recent years, oval-shaped diamonds have surged in popularity. They combine the brilliant cut of a round diamond with an elongated profile that often makes them appear larger than they are,” says Smith. “Round diamonds continue to be cherished for their unmatched sparkle, thanks to their cut, which maximises brilliance and fire. Heart-shaped diamonds, once considered out of style, have also made a striking comeback, with designers reimagining them in fresh and innovative settings.”

She also notes a growing trend for bigger stones to be set in more understated mountings. Instead of the more intricate pave or halo, choose modern settings like bezel or crossover designs so the center stone shines and makes a statement on its own. She also suggests setting or pairing your larger stones with contemporary materials such as enamel or brushed gold to make it more unique and wearable.

“Another strategy is to layer these statement pieces with more casual items, like gold bracelets or necklaces. These techniques ensure that large stones remain stylish and wearable without feeling overwhelming,” says Smith.

When it comes to purchasing big stones, auctions are often recommended as they may offer prices significantly lower than those found at retail stores, along with the opportunity to explore a diverse selection of stones in various sizes, styles, and qualities. Women should also be prepared to pay more – as a general rule, the bigger the diamond, the higher the price – especially as larger stones are rarer.

“When purchasing a large diamond or gemstone, it’s crucial to consult with a trusted expert who can provide insights into the qualities of each stone. While diamonds benefit from standardised grading systems established by the Gemological Institute of America (GIA), coloured stones lack such uniform assessments. For the latter, origin and colour are the most important factors in determining value,” advises Smith