What to Consider When Upgrading a Diamond Ring
The ultimate guide to upgrading your diamond engagement ring—learn when, why, and how to enhance your ring with a bigger or better diamond.
The phrase "A diamond is forever", first coined in a 1947 De Beers advertisement, cemented diamonds as the ultimate symbol of love. Today, diamond engagement rings remain one of the most significant jewelry purchases, with sales exceeding $30 billion annually in the U.S. and Canada. But while an engagement ring is often considered a lifelong treasure, many couples choose to upgrade their original diamond to mark a milestone, celebrate an anniversary, or simply reflect evolving personal styles.
Upgrading a diamond ring has become an increasingly popular trend, seen not only among celebrities—such as David Beckham, who has gifted Victoria Beckham 15 engagement rings over their 20-year marriage—but also among discerning collectors and everyday couples alike. Whether it’s a larger center stone, a new diamond shape, or a switch to a fancy-colored diamond, an upgrade can breathe new life into a cherished piece. Sotheby’s has created this guide to help navigate the key considerations when upgrading your diamond engagement ring.
Why Upgrade?
A diamond ring upgrade is a meaningful way to commemorate an important milestone—whether it’s an anniversary, vow renewal, or personal achievement. While increasing the diamond size is often the primary goal, there are several other aspects to consider, including diamond shape, color, setting, and budget.
Upgrade Diamond Size
For many, a diamond upgrade starts with size. A common question is: How much larger should the new center diamond be? While preferences vary, Sotheby’s clients often seek an upgrade of at least 2 carats or a center stone ranging between 5 to 10 carats.
When selecting a larger diamond, quality is paramount. We recommend choosing a diamond with a VS clarity or better, G color or higher, and a Very Good to Excellent cut. As the diamond size increases, inclusions and color become more noticeable, making superior quality even more important.
Beyond size, the shape of the diamond plays a crucial role in its overall appearance.
Upgrade Diamond Shape
When selecting a diamond of 5 carats or more, fancy shapes are often preferred over the classic round brilliant cut. If you've decided on a 5-carat or larger center stone, we recommend considering the following cuts: emerald, pear, oval, or cushion. Many buyers upgrading to a larger diamond also take this opportunity to explore a different shape for a fresh and distinctive look.
Emerald Cut: Sleek, Modern, and Timeless
For those seeking a sophisticated and modern upgrade, the emerald cut is an excellent choice. With origins dating back to the 1500s—when it was originally used for cutting emeralds—this shape gained prominence during the Art Deco era and remains a favorite for larger diamonds today. Its elongated, rectangular form not only enhances the perceived size of the stone but also creates a slimming effect on the finger.
Characterized by its clean, linear facets, the emerald cut offers a refined, almost "watery" elegance. However, because of its minimal faceting, it requires a diamond of high color and clarity, as inclusions and imperfections are more visible. A classic setting for an emerald-cut engagement ring is a three-stone design, featuring a central emerald diamond flanked by smaller trapezoid or emerald-cut side stones. As carat size increases, the bold facets of the emerald cut become even more striking, making it a perfect choice for an upgrade.
A close relative to the emerald cut is the Asscher cut, which features a square shape with deeply trimmed corners. Developed by the Royal Asscher Diamond Company in 1902, the Asscher cut was highly popular during the Art Deco period and saw a resurgence in the early 2000s. While less common than the emerald cut in larger carat sizes, it remains a compelling option for those drawn to vintage elegance.
Cushion Cut: The "Old New Classic"
The cushion cut diamond blends vintage charm with modern brilliance. Its origins trace back to the Old Mine cut of the 1700s, which was the most prevalent diamond shape until the early 1900s. While the Old Mine cut featured only 58 facets, today's cushion cut typically boasts 64, enhancing its sparkle and fire.
Recognized for its soft, rounded corners and pillow-like shape, the cushion cut is often referred to as the "old new classic." It is a popular choice among buyers of 5-carat and larger diamonds, offering a perfect balance of timeless beauty and contemporary appeal.
Oval Cut: Elegant and Brilliant
For those who love the brilliance of a round diamond but desire a more elongated and distinctive shape, the oval cut is an excellent alternative. Invented by Lazare Kaplan in 1957, the oval cut features 58 facets, delivering brilliance similar to that of a round brilliant cut. Its elongated form not only enhances its elegance but also creates the illusion of a larger stone, as the weight is more evenly distributed.
One consideration with oval diamonds is the potential for a "bow tie effect," a shadow that can appear in the center depending on the cut. Careful selection is essential to ensure optimal light performance and symmetry.
Pear Cut: Unique and Striking
The pear-shaped diamond, also known as the "teardrop," was invented in 1475 by Lodewyk van Bercken. A fusion of the round and marquise cuts, the pear shape offers a unique silhouette with 58 facets that enhance its brilliance.
The best proportions for a pear-shaped diamond depend on personal preference, but certain cuts may lead to light leakage or a bow tie effect. Despite this, the pear shape remains a standout choice, offering versatility in settings and a distinctive look in a 5-carat or larger diamond.
Upgrade To A Fancy Colored Diamond
Upgrading to a fancy-colored diamond is another striking way to make a statement. Far rarer than white diamonds, only 1 in 10,000 carats exhibits a fancy color, and an even scarcer 1 in 25,000 displays a fancy intense hue. Fancy pink, yellow, and blue diamonds are particularly coveted among luxury jewelry buyers, especially celebrities and Asian collectors. In fact, the five most expensive diamond rings sold at Sotheby’s in 2023 featured either fancy intense pink or fancy vivid blue diamonds.
Each hue carries its own symbolism—pink diamonds represent femininity and romance, yellow diamonds exude happiness and optimism, while blue diamonds signify loyalty and trust. Some of the most high-profile engagements have featured these exquisite stones: Ben Affleck proposed to Jennifer Lopez (for the second time) in 2022 with a rare natural fancy green diamond, while Ryan Reynolds proposed to Blake Lively with a pink oval diamond engagement ring. Victoria Beckham, known for her exceptional jewelry collection, owns several colored diamond rings, including two oval pink diamonds and two yellow diamonds.
Upgrade the Diamond Setting
The history of the three-stone ring dates back to the 1800s, but it was the De Beers 2001 Trilogy campaign that redefined it as a modern symbol of love. De Beers marketed the three-stone ring as a representation of a couple’s "past, present, and future." Today, the three-stone ring remains a popular choice for both engagement rings and upgrades. As an upgrade, it’s common to reset the original center diamond as one of the side stones, symbolizing the past. When choosing this upgrade, the center stone can be slightly smaller than the original, as it typically involves acquiring two additional diamonds. It’s essential to ensure that all diamonds in the setting have a similar color, clarity, and cut for a harmonious look.
Another unique and increasingly popular diamond setting is the Toi et Moi ring, which translates to “you and me.” This style was famously gifted by Napoleon Bonaparte to his wife, Josephine de Beauharnais, in 1796. Recently, the Toi et Moi ring has gained significant attention in the luxury jewelry market, as women seek more distinctive options when upgrading their engagement rings. Typically, Toi et Moi rings feature two diamonds of different shapes, and they can be set with both white and colored diamonds. This style also serves as an upgrade option, where the original center diamond can be combined with a new stone for a fresh, meaningful design.
Upgrade Your Engagement Ring at Sotheby's
Upgrading a diamond ring is a personal and meaningful decision that can reflect milestones, evolving tastes, and changing relationships. Whether opting for a larger center stone, a different diamond shape, a fancy-colored diamond, or a new setting, there are numerous ways to enhance the original piece. With careful consideration of quality, style, and budget, upgrading a diamond ring offers an opportunity to breathe new life into a cherished symbol of love while marking important moments.
Advantages to Buying Diamonds on the Secondary Market
1. Access
Sotheby’s provides exclusive access to a curated selection of diamond jewelry from the world’s most prestigious Maison's, including Van Cleef & Arpels, Cartier, Tiffany & Co and more. Clients can find top quality diamonds from one carat to more than twenty carats from top brands and bespoke creations. Our jewelry specialists work closely with collectors worldwide to source coveted diamond jewelry to provide exclusive access to the rarest and most desirable diamond jewelry.
2. Flexibility
Sotheby’s offers unique access to a wide selection of signed and unsigned diamond jewelry available at auction around the world. We also offer diamond jewelry for immediate purchase and allow easy side-by-side comparison of top brands and unsigned diamonds. We also offer a bespoke concierge service to help source unique one-of-a-kind diamond jewelry.
3. Value
The secondary market is an attractive alternative for purchasing diamond jewelry since you can realize more value compared to traditional retailers. Top brands and jewelry retailers add a material premium to cover manufacturing and other fixed costs that are not reflected in the prices at Sotheby’s. It’s possible to purchase classic diamond jewelry from top brands including Tiffany & Co., Cartier and Harry Winston at less than half of the original retail price. These pieces also often include the original packaging and certificates. Sotheby’s Jewelry specialists also inspect every item before accepting it for sale.
4. Discovery
One of the greatest advantages of shopping in a global luxury marketplace is the opportunity to discover rare and unique diamond jewelry pieces that are no longer available through traditional retail channels. Our curated selection of diamond jewelry is continuously refreshed, ensuring that you’ll always find something new and exclusive to build your collection.
Buy and Sell Diamond Jewelry At Sotheby's
Sotheby's often has impressive diamond jewelry available at auction. Sotheby's also has a curated selection of diamond jewelry available for immediate purchase on marketplace. If you would like to view diamond jewelry, a salon specialist would be happy to assist. Sotheby's is also able to source an exceptional diamond jewelry creation from its global supplier network.
- Explore upcoming jewelry at auctions in New York, London, Switzerland, Paris, and Hong Kong.
- Contact a Salon Associate in New York, Zurich or Hong Kong to schedule an appointment.
- Speak to a Jewelry Specialist about selling diamond jewelry.
Trust our worldwide network of leading jewelry specialists from a globally renowned auction house established in 1744.
