Vacheron Constantin: Understanding the Key Models

The History of Vacheron Constantin

F ounded in 1755, Vacheron Constantin has evolved across geopolitical events, catastrophes and human innovation to establish itself as the oldest watchmaker in continual production.

Jean-Marc Vacheron was at the helm of the watchmaker’s beginnings, known for making high-grade pocket watches under his family firm. At the age of 24 he signed on his first apprentice for what would become an incredibly successful and notable business. His skills lived on in his son, Abraham Vacheron, who then passed the family tradition on to Jean Marc’s grandson.

In 1819, the highly talented watchmaker Jacques Barthélémi Vacheron met businessman François Constantin and Vacheron became Vacheron Constantin. It was in the same year that the motto of the company was birthed from a letter between the two business partners, “Do better if possible and that is always possible.”

From its founding, Vacheron Constantin has devoted itself to keeping Genevese watchmaking techniques alive, through heralding heritage in their business model, as well as seeking to constantly improve their collections without losing sight of their beginnings as a patrilineal business.

Ground zero for its earliest achievements remained in Geneva despite its increasingly global presence, awarding Vacheron Constantin the ‘Geneva seal’ in 1901. Its first boutique opened in 1906 in Geneva in light of its increasing popularity with the likes of monarchs and oligarchs.

15 years later, Vacheron Constantin created its first wristwatch for the American market. As the times changed and culture evolved, Vacheron Constantin kept its finger on the pulse and never failed to deliver what its clientele requested. The brand is unafraid of usurping their previous achievements, creating their most complex watches in their 250th and 260th anniversaries, featuring 57 different complications. Vacheron Constantin has completely dedicated themselves to the world of horlogerie, drawing upon their long history and talented employees to produce striking models with a loyal collector following.

Vacheron Constantin Patrimony Minute Repeater Perpetual Calendar, Reference 30020/000P-7596

The Key Models of Vacheron Constantin

Across generations, Vacheron Constantin has created a variety of models, challenging themselves to improve and evolve with each iteration. Join us as we draw upon the Sotheby's archives to explore the key Vacheron Constantin models.

Vacheron Constantin Patrimony

Vacheron Constantin watch — Vacheron Constantin Traditionelle Singapore Boutique Edition, Reference 43076/000P-9875

Launched in 2005, the Vacheron Constantin Patrimony line was a return to the beauty of minimalism in an era of grand complications and strong silhouettes. This particular Vacheron Constantin Patrimony achieved 241,300 HKD in October 2023 during Sotheby's Important Watches Sale in Hong Kong.

The Patrimony models took clear inspiration from the European minimalist dress watches of the 1950s; these design hallmarks included a thin profile, trim lugs, minimalist dial markers, and a circular case and dial. Vacheron Constantin endeavored to add dynamism to this silhouette by adding just the slightest curve to the case, dial, and watch hands. This dynamic design also allowed them to keep the profile of the watches anywhere between 8mm and 9mm, maintaining the thinness of the case regardless of the amount of complications held within. Born of the maison’s desire to herald heritage in the context of modern developments, the Vacheron Constantin Patrimony watch was a perfect way to demonstrate their 21st century expertise with a classic form.

Notable References: Vacheron Constantin Patrimony Reference 30050, Vacheron Constantin Patrimony Minute Repeater Perpetual Calendar Reference 30020/000P-7596, Vacheron Constantin Patrimony Reference 49005

Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle

A further exploration of Vacheron Constantin and their relationship to heritage, the Traditionnelle line evokes craftsmanship and instruction passed down from generation to generation.

Its focus is on horlogerie at large, paying its dues to Swiss watchmaking and how it has developed over the years. It began as part of the Vacheron Constantin Patrimony line, splitting off in the early 2010s in favor of exploring a more contemporary look without disrupting the design of the Patriomony. The Traditionnelle watches often feature several design hallmarks described as ‘eminently horological’. A stepped round case, a railway minute track, a fine bezel, fluted case back, applied ‘Geneva baton’ hour hands and minute markers, as well as classic dauphine-shaped hands. This line includes watches featuring a variety of complications, beautifully finished within the watch and arranged aesthetically across the watch face.

The Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle shown here sold for 2,394,000 HKD in 2021, significantly exceeding its low estimate of 1,400,000 HKD.

Notable References: Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle World Time Reference 86060, Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Reference 80172, Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Reference 30051

Vacheron Constantin Malte

The Vacheron Constantin Malte collection was yet another innovation of the maison with the goal of minimizing complications. From this goal came the first ever tonneau-shaped watch case, released by Vacheron Constantin in 1912 and influencing the Malte’s release in 2000. Its namesake hails from the maltese cross integrated into the design code of the maison in 1880, and subsequently into the contours of its tonneau-shaped releases. The Maltese cross became a motif in the Malte watch, with its silhouette influencing the form of the case and a crown featuring a distorted version of the cross. A notable feature of the Malte line includes its tourbillon variations; Vacheron Constantin successfully integrated the maltese cross into the tourbillon carriage as a testament to their dedication to mastering function and form.

This particular Vacheron Constantin Malte achieved 75,000 CHF in 2016.

Notable References: Vacheron Constantin Malte Tourbillon 'Excellence Platine' Reference 30130/000P-9876, Vacheron Constantin Malte Moon Phase 7000M/000R-B109

Vacheron Constantin Historiques

The spirit of revival resides in the heart of the Vacheron Constantin Historiques collection. Its goal is to push iconic forms back into the mainstream by offering contemporary reimaginings, showcasing the aesthetic and technical expertise of the maison. The Vacheron Constantin Historique is one of the brand’s most diverse watch collections, as it centers on updating old forms over a uniform design that defines the line.

Some of the most popular reimaginings include the Vacheron Constantin Historiques American 1921, which reinterprets a model launched in 1921 in honor of the Roaring Twenties. The diagonal reading of the time prevented wearers from needing to turn their wrist to read the time. This model seamlessly blended convenience, technical prowess, and aesthetic appeal in each element of the piece, in true Vacheron Constantin fashion. Other Historique models persist in embodying Vacheron Constantin’s dedication to innovation without losing sense of their roots.

The Vacheron Constantin Historiques shown here significantly outperformed its high estimate of 150,000 HKD, achieveing 252,000 HKD during Sotheby's Important Watches sale in April 2021. This particular Vacheron Constantin watch was launched in 2015. A limited edition for the Vacheron Constantin New York boutique with only 64 pieces made, the watch attracted great attention by the market and won the ‘Watch of the Year’ award from Montres Passion magazine.

Notable References: Vacheron Constantin Historiques American 1921 Reference 1100S, Vacheron Constantin Les Historiques Reference 49502, Vacheron Constantin Historiques Cornes de Vache 1955 Reference 5000H

Vacheron Constantin Overseas

Though historically recognized for its dress-watch designs, the momentum of the Vacheron Constantin Overseas in recent years has resulted in the model becoming argubaly the maison's most identifiable model. It’s direct ancestor was the Vacheron Constantin 222. This was a response from Vacheron Constantin during the boom of luxury sports watches in the 1970s, especially by Patek Philippe and Audemars Piguet.

Despite bearing many hallmarks of the ‘Genta design’, it is important to recognize that the 222 was designed by Jörg Hysek. Its rebirth as the iconic Vacheron Constantin Overseas was designed by Vincent Kaufmann and Dino Modolo in 1996.

This watch bore a tonneau shaped case, a fluted bezel, a crown bearing the maltese cross, and an integrated bracelet with geometric links. As the model evolved, Vacheron Constantin’s penchant for perfectly finished and thin complications inevitably integrated themselves into the Overseas, expanding the range of the model.

Notable References: Vacheron Constantin Overseas Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin, Reference 4300V/120G-B945, Vacheron Constantin Overseas Chronograph Reference 5500V/110A-B148, Vacheron Constantin Overseas Dual Time Reference 47450

Vacheron Constantin Metiers d’Art

The Metiers d’Art line at Vacheron Constantin puts on display all of maison's crafts. Vacheron Constantin's talented enamellers, jewelers, and watchmakers are brought to the fore with this model, unified by highly decorated watch faces. The brand sought to honor human innovation through homages to the greatest artists, civilizations, and creators throughout history. This sentiment shines through immediately when one looks upon a Vacheron Constantin Metiers d’Art watch.

Its earliest release, in 2007, took the form of the Les Masques collection. This collection adorned each watch face with twelve respective masks from the Barbier-Mueller, reproduced in gold and set firmly in the middle. Since then, the Metiers d’Art line has taken the form of homages to Chinese art, a tribute to history’s greatest expeditions, and the masterpieces of the Louvre. Each watch featured a rounded case, with an occasionally engraved, diamond-set, or fluted bezel to compliment the design across the watch face alongside a crown bearing the maltese cross.

This Vacheron Constantin Metiers d’Art achieved 50,800 CHF during Sotheby's Important Watches Sale in May 2024. Crafted in 2006, this piece was a captivating testament to the spirit of exploration and adventure. This masterpiece in yellow gold paid homage to the legendary explorer Ferdinand Magellan.

Notable References: Vacheron Constantin Les Métiers d'Arts Tribute to the Great Explorers 'Marco Polo' Reference 47070/000J-9086, Vacheron Constantin Métiers d'Art Tribute to Great Civilisations - Grand Sphinx de Tanis Reference 7620A/000R-B927, Vacheron Constantin Métiers d'Art Tribute to Explorer Naturalists - Terre de Feu Reference 7500U/000G-B993

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