Ultimate Guide to Buying an Emerald Cut Engagement Ring

Learn everything you need to know about buying an emerald cut diamond engagement ring.

History of Emerald Cut Diamonds

The emerald cut was originally developed for emerald gemstones. Emeralds are softer and more prone to inclusions and fractures than diamonds, and the rectangular shape with stepped facets was designed to protect the stone while showcasing its color and clarity. The cut's origin can be traced back to the 16th century when stone cutters began to refine their techniques to minimize pressure during the cutting process In the early 20th century, the emerald cut was adapted for diamonds. Its geometric lines and elegance made it a favorite during the Art Deco period of the 1920s and 1930s, which celebrated bold, linear designs and symmetry. The cut's ability to emphasize the diamond’s clarity and luster without the intense brilliance of other cuts suited the era's aesthetic preferences.

Popularity of Emerald Cut Diamonds

There are nearly 100,000 monthly searches for emerald cut diamonds in the United States, which far exceeds any other diamond cut. The Art Deco movement significantly influenced the popularity of the emerald cut for diamonds in the 1920s. This period's emphasis on clean lines, symmetry, and geometric patterns resonated with the emerald cut’s step-cut design. Jewelry from this era often featured emerald cut diamonds, contributing to its association with vintage glamour and sophistication. The emerald cut maintained its popularity through the mid-20th century, becoming a symbol of Hollywood glamour. Famous actresses and public figures chose emerald cut diamonds, which further cemented their status as a luxurious and elegant choice. The cut’s ability to showcase a diamond's purity and high quality makes it a desirable option for engagement rings and fine jewelry.

The rectangular shape also has the positive benefit of elongating the finger. Emerald cut diamonds have straight, linear facets that are clean and streamlined, giving an almost ‘watery’ look that is classic and sophisticated. The emerald cut is typically used for only high-color grade and high-clarity grade diamonds because its minimal facets show any imperfection and inclusion to the naked eye. A classic style for an emerald engagement ring is a three-stone setting: a single emerald diamond in the center flanked by smaller trapezoid-shaped or emerald-cut diamonds. The emerald shape diamond is also perfect for an upgrade ring because the stones tend to look better as carat size increases and the bold facets are even more apparent to the eye.

Rarity of high quality emerald cut diamonds over 3 carats also adds to their popularity for luxury buyers. Less than 1% of diamond are over 3 carats and emerald cut diamonds make up about 3-5% of the total diamond market.

The 4 Cs: Carat, Clarity, Color, and Cut

The stepped facets and open table emphasize clarity and inclusions will be more visible in this cut. Emerald cut diamonds also appear larger than the same size round stone due to the weight of the stone being more on the surface. An emerald cut diamond, like the oval and cushion cut diamond also come in a range of ratios that allow for more variability. Emerald cut diamonds length and width ratios also offer flexibility resulting in square to more elongated rectangles.

Carat: Emerald cut diamonds are impressive due to their broad, open facets. Sotheby's emerald cut engagement rings generally start at around 3-carats.
Clarity: Since the emerald cut highlights clarity, it’s important to choose a diamond with minimal inclusions. Sotheby's recommends a clarity grade of VS1 or higher to ensure a clean and clear appearance.
Color: Color is more visible in emerald cut diamonds, so a near-colorless grade, H or better color is recommended.
Cut: While GIA does not provide a cut grade for emerald cuts, focus on the overall symmetry and polish. Ensure the diamond has an excellent or very good cut for maximum beauty.

Type I and Type II Diamonds

About 95% of diamonds are Type Ia and contain trace amount of nitrogen. Most engagement rings and other diamond jewelry are made from Type Ia diamonds. Type Ib diamonds are often associated with intense canary yellow diamonds and are often used for jewelry. Type II diamonds are much rarer than Type I diamonds and have fewer inclusions and higher clarity than the more common Type I diamonds.

Type IIa diamonds are the purest form of diamonds with no measurable nitrogen or boron impurities. These diamonds are often colorless but can also be found in rare colors like pink, brown or blue. These are extremely rare and comprise less and 2% of all mined diamonds. These diamonds are formed under high-pressure and high-temperature conditions which can give the diamond higher clarity and brilliance. Sotheby's sold a Type IIa 33.13 carat emerald cut diamond for 2.8 million CHF in 2022.

Type IIb diamonds contain boron which give them blue or grayish-blue color. Unlike other diamonds, Type IIb are semiconductors and can conduct electricity and are even rarer than Type IIa diamonds. The Hope Diamond is an example for a famous Type IIa diamond.

Fancy Colored Emerald Cut Diamond Rings

Another potential option is considering a fancy colored emerald cut diamond ring. The most common colored diamond is yellow, while other colors including pink, blue and green diamonds are much rarer. Prices for fancy colored emerald cut diamonds are significantly more expensive due to their rarity. Additionally the emerald cut is not typically the first choice to showcase a diamond's color, making emerald cut colored diamonds even rarer than cushion, oval, pear or heart cut colored diamonds. Impressive fancy colored emerald cut diamonds are often over $1 million. Sotheby's sold a 7.37 carat fancy intense orangy pink corner cut emerald cut diamond for $1.7 million and a 11.57 carat fancy vivid yellow emerald cut diamond for 1.1 million CHF in 2023.

Celebrity Emerald Cut Diamond Rings

Emerald cut diamonds are a favorite of celebrities, which contributes to their popularity. Grace Kelly's second engagement ring was a Cartier ring featuring a 10.48 carat emerald cut diamond. John F. Kennedy presented to Jacqueline Bouvier a Van Cleef & Arpels Toi et Moi ring in 1953 featuring one 2.88 carat emerald cut diamond mounted next to a 2.84 carat cut emerald with tapered baguettes. Elizabeth Taylor received a 29.4 carat emerald cut engagement ring from film producer Mike Todd in 1956. Sarah Jessica Parker's engagement ring from 1997 features a 7-8 carat emerald cut diamond. Beyonce wears an 18 carat emerald cut diamond engagement ring. George Clooney proposed to Amal with a 7 carat emerald cut diamond engagement ring. Anne Hathaway and Sofia Richie both have engagement rings with a 6 carat emerald cut diamond. Of the 15 diamond rings gifted to Victoria Beckham by David, 3 featured emerald cut diamonds.

Buying an Emerald Cut Diamond Ring at Sotheby's

Sotheby's sells natural emerald cut diamond rings on its marketplace, available for immediate shipping. The price for a 3 carat emerald cut diamond ring that is VS clarity and H color starts at about $30,000. This can vary depending on the cut, brand and provenance. Along with high quality diamond rings VS clarity and H color or better, Sotheby's also sells emerald cut diamond rings from top luxury brands including Harry Winston, Tiffany, Cartier and more. Sotheby's selection is focused on rings that have center stones that are a minimum of 3 carats. Fancy colored emerald cut diamonds generally start smaller since the stones are more rare. Sotheby's also sells rare and impressive emerald cut diamond rings at auctions in New York, London, Switzerland, Paris and Hong Kong. You can also contact a Client Advisor in New York or Bucherer in Zurich to learn more about Sotheby's engagement rings. In addition to the available emerald cut rings listed on marketplace or available at auction, Sotheby's is also able to source a diamond engagement ring from its global supplier network. Browse our curated selection online and reach out to a Salon associate to schedule a viewing.