The Timeless Value of Hermès Leather
Quality is the name of the game with Hermès, and that all starts with materials. Hermès leather is exclusively ‘full grain’ leather with an ‘intact and unaltered’ top layer. Hermès prides itself on the ‘transparency’ and durability of their leathers. Over the decades, this has amounted to dozens of different grains and finishes, many of which have been discontinued and are considered incredibly rare. Today, the leather Birkin bag, Hermès Kelly bag and Hermès Constance (BKC) make up the majority of the handbag auction and resale market. In this list, we delve into the top five most common Hermès leather types sold at auction over the last ten years.
Hermès Togo: The Durable Classic
The most popular Hermès leather, comprising nearly 15% of all Birkin bags and Hermès Kelly bags sold at auction, is Hermès Togo leather. This supple, irregularly grained calfskin was first introduced in 1996 – a big year for Hermès that also saw the introduction of the Birkin 30 and a new design for strap clasps that is still in use today. Beloved by Hermès bag collectors for its scratch and water resistance, Hermès Togo leather is also relatively lightweight when compared to other grained leathers, like Hermès Clemence or Hermès Fjord. With use, Hermès Togo develops a slight sheen and becomes more supple. Though Hermès Togo leather is the most common among all BKC (Birkin, Kelly, Constance) styles, it is never produced as either Kelly Cuts or Pochettes, nor as Hermès Constance in any size. It is most commonly found as Birkin bag or Hermès Kelly Retourne, though Hermès Togo Kelly bags in Sellier do exist and are given the special moniker ‘Mou,’ denoting their use of a supple leather in a structured construction.
Hermès Epsom Leather: The Vibrant Favorite
Making up nearly 10% of all BKC sold at auction, Epsom leather takes second place on our list. This heat-pressed Epsom leather features a small cross-hatched grain that gives the leather a unique stiffness and durability. Replacing Courchevel leather in 2004, Epsom leather quickly became a favorite among Hermès bag collectors for its exceptional ability to display vibrant colors. This was showcased to great effect when Epsom leather was selected as the exclusive material for the 2010 Candy Collection, which paired new neon colors with contrasting interiors. At auction, Epsom leather BKC average more than any other material on this list. Produced in nearly every style and size, this Hermès leather has proven its ability to hold up with heavy use, resisting water and most scratches. Hermès epsom leather bags tend to hold their shape better than most others, except for stiff leathers like Box and Tadelakt.
Hermès Clemence Leather: Togo Leather Counterpart
The third leather on our list has been around for decades. Claiming more than 9% of all BKC sold at auction, Veau Taurillon Clemence, or TC for short, is often mistaken for Togo Leather. They both come from male bull calves, though Togo leather grain is slightly tighter than that on Hermès Clemence leather, which tends not to show veining as Togo sometimes can. Slightly heavier, Clemence leather is quicker to slouch with use, and at auction averages about 20% less than its more popular counterpart. Similarly scratch resistant, Clemence leather is notably less water resistant than Togo leather, sometimes showing water spots if not wiped dry promptly.
Hermès Box Leather: The Leather With A Legacy
The oldest Hermès leather on this list by far, Box Calf leather, has been used by Hermès since the 1890’s. Cemented in history, it was named to honor Joseph Box: famed cobbler to London’s petit bourgeoisie. Rigid and smooth with a semi-gloss finish, Hermès Box leather is renowned for its unique ability to patina over decades of use. While scratches are easily had and easily buffed out, over time this leather will develop a particular sheen that is enhanced with regular care. Holding 8% of the auction market, Hermès Box leather bags are mostly vintage Hermès Kelly bag and Hermès Constance, though Birkin bags have been produced in the Box leather as long as the style has existed. A Black Box BKC with Gold hardware has become a standard among Hermès bag collectors, representing the enduring history of Hermès' iconic designs. While still produced today, ‘store-fresh’ Box Birkin bag or Hermès Kelly bag are extremely rare and difficult to find on the secondary market like Sotheby's.
Hermès Swift Leather: The Newest and Smoothest
Last (but newest) on our list, making up just over 6% of all BKC sold at auction, is Hermès Swift leather. Replacing the discontinued Hermès Gulliver leather in 2006, Hermès Swift leather is set apart by its smooth, pillowy material and very fine grain. This unique grain absorbs color exceptionally well and reflects light to showcase Hermès’ prized hues to great effect. More easily scratched than the other materials on this list, Hermès Swift leather is most popular in small sizes, as large bags in this leather tend to be extra floppy. In 2018, Hermès introduced Jonathan leather, the next iteration in this line of soft smooth calfskins. Namely, we can only assume the next version will be called Travel leather, as Jonathan Swift wrote Gulliver’s Travels.
Hermès Chévre Leather: The (Incredibly Rare) Honorable Mention
An honorable mention goes to Hermès Chévre leather, which accounts for fewer BKC sold at auction than any exotic (except for Matte Porosus Crocodile), making up just 3% of the market. Hermès bags in multiple types of Chévre leather: a goatskin known for its unique grain and texture have been produced. Typically shinier than other leathers, most Hermès Chévre skins have a distinct spine running down the center, which is noticeable in the lining of almost all Birkin and Hermès Kelly bags. Today, Hermès Chévre leather bags are almost exclusively produced via the special order process, making them particularly valuable to Hermès bag collectors. At auction, these Hermès bags average more than any other Hermès leather on this list, partly due to the material’s use in the super-popular mini-Kelly 20 II.
