Top Five Hermès Purses to Start Your Collection

If you are new to collecting Hermès purses and are wondering where to start, Sotheby's Handbags Specialists are here to help. We factored versatility, popularity and durability in our top five picks. While there are many Hermès purses beyond our top five, it's our experience collectors generally like to start with the most timeless styles. The quality and craftsmanship ensures an Hermès purse will last for years and in some cases generations.

The Birkin is the original ‘It Bag;’ the ultimate purse to show that you’ve made it. Even for Hermès collectors who prefer the Kelly, a Birkin is still a must-have Hermès purse. Recently, the popularity of smaller purses has skyrocketed, with the mini Birkin 25 becoming the most valuable in the resale market. But for decades it was bigger Birkin bags that people preferred, with the Birkin 35 taking center stage on the secondary market. For people looking to start an Hermes collection, a Birkin 30 is a perfect first purse. This size is extremely popular not only for its iconic design but for its practicality. Togo and Epsom leather are the most common and are both hard-wearing leathers that are easy to use regularly without worry. In terms of color, Black or other neutral like Gold or Etoupe is a smart choice for a first Birkin. Hermès has a history of producing black purses as long as they’ve been making any purses, so black is the most timeless and classic option.

The Hermès Kelly has been around much longer than the Birkin and has had a dedicated group of fans for decades. Aside from the difference in handles, many collectors love that the Kelly has a shoulder strap, which allows for hands-free use. For Retourne Kellys, which have a softer structure, Togo and Clemence are the most common leathers, and for the more sturdy and stiff Sellier Kellys, Epsom is seen regularly. Many people find that Retourne Kellys are easier to use, and examples in neutral shades like Etoupe and Gold are extremely popular for their versatility. While the mini bag trend has driven up demand and pricing for the Hermès Mini Kelly, we still recommend the Kelly 28 for it's versatility and an important part of your Hermès purse collection.

Since Hermès has been making purses for over a century, no collection is complete without at least one older piece, and the ultimate vintage Hermès purse is undoubtedly a Black Box Sellier Kelly with Gold hardware. Box leather has been part of Hermès’ repertoire since the early 1920’s and even though it is known to scratch easily, vintage purses in this leather develop a beautiful patina over the years that is unlike anything you’ll find on newer purses. Sourcing a vintage Hermès purse in excellent condition may take a little time, but it's worth the effort and our Specialists are happy to help you find the perfect purse.

Every Hermès collection needs at least one clutch. The Kelly styling is found on a number of different clutches but the most popular today is definitely the Hermès Kelly Pochette. This mini purse shrinks the trapezoidal shape of the Kelly down and replaces the stiff top-handle with a thin hand-strap. This Hermès purse is perfect for evening and for formal events, exotic versions are also particularly eye catching.

The Hermès Constance has been around a few decades longer than the Birkin. Designed for shoulder or crossbody use, Constances sport a bold H-clasp at the front and are most commonly found in 18 or 24cm sizes. Recently the original single-gusset Constance 24 was re-released by Hermès to much acclaim from collectors; its large single interior compartment makes the bag more practical for regular use. The Constance is also found in a smaller size at14cm which is a great choice if you are a fan of mini Hermès purses.

Designed in 1978, the Hermès Evelyne is another iconic design that is instantly recognizable as Hermès. This Hermès purse was initially meant for use in the stable, the perforated ‘H’ intended to let equestrian tools dry while inside. Today, Evelynes are still extremely popular for their practicality, and many collectors particularly love the Evelyne TPM, which can be collected in many different colors, and used with many different straps.