The Brilliant History of Tiffany and Co Jewelry
Explore the rich history of Tiffany & Co., from its founding to its legendary collaborations with iconic designers and its lasting influence on pop culture.
Early History of Tiffany and Co
Over nearly 200 years, Tiffany & Co. has evolved into the quintessential American jeweler, renowned worldwide for its glamour and timeless style. Founded in 1837 by Charles Lewis Tiffany (1812–1902) and his partner J.B. Young as Tiffany & Young, the company began as a “fancy goods” store on Broadway in New York, with first-day sales totaling just $4.98.
In 1845, Tiffany pioneered the first direct mail catalog, the iconic "Blue Book Collection," showcasing the brand’s exquisite offerings to a wider audience. Charles Lewis Tiffany assumed sole ownership in 1853, officially renaming the business Tiffany & Co., setting the stage for its rise as a global luxury powerhouse. The company made significant strides in jewelry innovation, introducing gold fashion jewelry in 1868 and unveiling the first stopwatch, known as the Tiffany Timer, in 1866.
Tiffany Diamond
In 1870, Tiffany & Co. relocated to a store in Union Square, quickly establishing itself as the premier destination for New York’s fashionable and affluent elite. As the brand developed its distinctive design identity, it became celebrated for its exquisite Japonesque-style silverware and dazzling diamond jewelry—earning Charles Lewis Tiffany the title of the “King of Diamonds.”
A defining moment in the company’s history came in 1878 when Tiffany acquired an extraordinary 278.42-carat fancy yellow diamond. The following year, it was expertly cut into a breathtaking 128.54-carat gemstone, later christened the Tiffany Diamond. Today, it remains one of the world's largest and most renowned fancy yellow diamonds, symbolizing the brand’s enduring legacy of excellence and innovation in the world of fine jewelry.
Tiffany Setting
In 1886, Tiffany & Co. revolutionized the diamond solitaire ring with the introduction of the iconic Tiffany Setting. This groundbreaking six-prong design, which won numerous awards at international exhibitions, was celebrated for its ability to virtually disappear, allowing the diamond to appear as if it were floating above the band. Timeless and elegant, the classic Tiffany Setting remains one of the most sought-after and enduring engagement ring styles to this day.
Tiffany Blue
In the 1940s, Charles Lewis Tiffany introduced the now-iconic signature blue hue that has become synonymous with the brand’s identity. This distinctive robin’s egg blue, which exudes elegance and sophistication, was officially trademarked as Tiffany Blue in 1998. In 2001, the color was further cemented as a hallmark of the brand when Pantone standardized it as a custom shade, exclusively created for Tiffany & Co. and aptly named 1837 Blue—a tribute to the year of the company’s founding.
Breakfast at Tiffany's
In 1940, Tiffany & Co. relocated to its current global flagship store at the iconic corner of 57th Street and Fifth Avenue in New York City. This legendary location made its silver screen debut in the 1961 classic Breakfast at Tiffany’s, starring Audrey Hepburn. The film, which was the first ever to be shot inside the Tiffany flagship, cemented the brand’s place in pop culture history.
Acquisition by LVMH
In 2021, LVMH completed its acquisition of Tiffany & Co. for $15.8 billion. Honoring the brand’s rich heritage, LVMH launched a star-studded ad campaign featuring several iconic elements synonymous with Tiffany’s legacy. Beyoncé and Jay-Z starred in the campaign alongside Jean-Michel Basquiat's painting Equals Pi, which features a striking blue backdrop reminiscent of Tiffany’s signature Blue Box. Adding to the nostalgia, Beyoncé performed a soulful rendition of Moon River, the beloved song from the 1961 film Breakfast at Tiffany’s, famously associated with Audrey Hepburn.
Iconic Tiffany and Co Jewelry Designers
Tiffany Schlumberger
Jean Schlumberger is renowned for his imaginative, nature-inspired creations for Tiffany & Co. Born in 1907 in Alsace, France, he gained recognition designing for Elsa Schiaparelli before joining Tiffany in 1956 as Vice President. His iconic designs, such as the Bird on a Rock brooch, showcase his masterful use of vibrant gemstones and intricate goldwork. In September 2022, Sotheby's sold a Schlumberger for Tiffany & Co. Citrine, Ruby and Diamond 'Bird on a Rock' Brooch for 44,100 USD. Schlumberger’s signature paillonné enamel bangles, crafted using a 19th-century technique that layers enamel over 18k gold, remain timeless and were famously worn by Jackie Kennedy Onassis. His legacy lives on through his award-winning designs, which continue to captivate collectors and influence the world of high jewelry.
Elsa Perertti
In 1974, Elsa Peretti joined Tiffany & Co. and revolutionized jewelry design, elevating sterling silver to luxury status with her debut collection. At a time when silver was considered unsuitable for fine jewelry, Elsa Peretti boldly embraced it in her collections. Before her partnership with Tiffany & Co., the brand had not sold silver jewelry since the Great Depression.
Peretti's nature-inspired designs became iconic, including the Diamonds by the Yard, Open Heart, Bean and celebrated Bone Cuffs collection. The Bone Cuff's design was inspired by religious relics Peretti encountered in childhood. Its design is so anatomically precise that it must be purchased to fit either the left or right wrist. This bracelet remains fashionable as ever and is an enduring modern classic. In 2023, Sotheby's sold a pair of Elsa Peretti Bone Cuff Bangles for 55,000 EUR.
Paloma Picasso
Paloma Picasso, daughter of Pablo Picasso and Françoise Gilot, has been a creative force from an early age. She joined Tiffany & Co. in 1979, initially designing a table setting for an exhibition, which led to an exclusive collaboration and the launch of her iconic Paloma’s Graffiti collection, inspired by New York street art. In the 1980s, she introduced vibrant, often overlooked gemstones into her designs, epitomizing the bold glamour of the era. In 2015, Sotheby's sold a one of a kind 18 Karat Gold, Platinum, Colored Stone and Diamond Necklace and Earclips for $478,000. The necklace was created in 1985 to celebrate Picasso's 5th anniversary with Tiffany and Co. The Paloma Picasso Tiffany necklace incorporated her "X" motif and epitomized 1980s glamour with multicolored gemstones and diamonds.
Advantages to Buying Tiffany & Co. on the Secondary Market
There are many advantages to buying Tiffany & Co. at Sotheby's. As one of the largest and most established global luxury secondary markets, Sotheby's offers clients many unique advantages when growing a Tiffany & Co. collection.
1. Access
Sotheby's is able to provide access to a curated Tiffany & Co. selection from its long established global network of sellers. Sotheby's is a leading global marketplace that offers pristine Tiffany & Co. pieces in the most coveted designs. Our jewelry specialists are always sourcing the more desirable Tiffany & Co. from collectors around the world. Sotheby's also sells incredible private collections that include one of a kind Tiffany & Co. pieces.
2. Flexibility
Sotheby's provides multiple ways to purchase Tiffany & Co. including auction, online and in person in New York, Hong Kong, Zurich, Paris and London. Sotheby's also offers a concierge service if you need assistance sourcing a specific Tiffany & Co. pieces that aren't available at auction or online.
3. Value
While Tiffany & Co. boutiques offer their iconic jewelry collections, finding specific designs, gemstones, or styles can sometimes be a challenge due to limited availability. Sotheby’s provides a curated selection of Tiffany & Co. pieces, including rare and sought-after designs, available for purchase without the need to visit a physical store. Shopping with Sotheby’s allows you to discover exceptional Tiffany jewelry, from vintage masterpieces to contemporary classics, all in one place. Whether you're searching for a timeless diamond engagement ring or a unique statement piece, Sotheby’s offers a seamless and efficient way to acquire the perfect Tiffany treasure, saving you time while ensuring authenticity and quality.
4. Discovery
One of the greatest advantages of shopping in a global luxury marketplace is the chance to discover unique, one-of-a-kind Tiffany & Co. pieces and rare, limited-edition jewels no longer available at Tiffany & Co. stores. Our curated selection of Tiffany & Co. jewelry is continuously refreshed, ensuring that you’ll always find something new and exclusive.
Buy or Sell Tiffany & Co. At Sotheby's
Sotheby's often has rare and collectible Tiffany & Co. pieces available at auction. Sotheby's also has a curated selection of Tiffany & Co. jewelry available for immediate purchase on marketplace. If you would like to view Tiffany & Co. jewelry, a salon specialist would be happy to assist. Sotheby's is also able to source Tiffany & Co. jewelry from its global supplier network. Prices for Tiffany & Co. jewels begin at around $3,000, with prices rising substantially for highly coveted designs, such as diamond engagement rings, which can surpass $100,000.
- Explore upcoming jewelry at auctions in New York, London, Switzerland, Paris, and Hong Kong.
- Speak to a Salon Associate in New York, Zurich, London, Paris, or Hong Kong to schedule an appointment.
- Contact a Jewelry Specialist about selling a Tiffany & Co. piece.
Trust our worldwide network of leading jewelry specialists from a globally renowned auction house established in 1744.
