The Ultimate Guide to Hermès Kelly Bags
Discover essential tips and insights to know before purchasing an iconic Hermès Kelly bag, from styles and sizes to materials and buying options.
Brief History of the Hermès Kelly Bag
The history of the Hermès Kelly bag is a testament to the evolution of the luxury brand Hermès, with its origins dating back to 1852. The bag's story begins with the creation of the Haut à Courroies (HAC), a design originally intended to carry saddles for equestrians. In the 1930s, the HAC was reimagined as the Sac à Dépêches by Robert Dumas, son-in-law of Hermès CEO Émile Hermès.
The Kelly bag rose to fame in 1955 when actress Grace Kelly, while filming To Catch a Thief, discovered the bag and became inseparable from it. She famously used it to shield her pregnancy from paparazzi, cementing its status as a symbol of elegance and sophistication. In honor of the actress-turned-Princess of Monaco, Hermès officially renamed the bag the “Kelly” in 1977. The Kelly’s original trapezoidal design featured two triangular gussets, a cutout flap, a single handle, and two side straps. Over time, an optional shoulder strap was added, enhancing its functionality. Meticulously handcrafted, each Kelly bag is constructed from 36 pieces of leather and requires 680 stitches, taking a single artisan 18 to 24 hours to complete.
Since its inception, the Kelly bag has evolved into various forms, with the two main styles being the Kelly Retourne and the Kelly Sellier. Its iconic status has inspired an array of Hermès accessories, including the Kelly wallet, belt, watch, clutches, and smaller leather goods. The Hermès Kelly bag remains a timeless icon of luxury and craftsmanship, celebrated for its elegance, exclusivity, and enduring legacy.
Hermes Kelly Bag Constructions: Sellier vs. Retourne
When choosing a Kelly Bag, you’ll come across two iconic styles: the Sellier and the Retourne, each with its own unique characteristics and appeal. There are several subtle differences between the Hermès Kelly Retourne and the Hermès Kelly Sellier, primarily in their stitching, silhouette, and overall feel.
The Hermès Kelly Sellier is distinguished by its visible stitching and sharp, angular edges. Hermès artisans craft the Sellier using an exterior stitching technique, creating a bag with a structured, rigid form. This polished look is further enhanced by the use of firmer leathers, making the Sellier an ideal choice for those seeking a formal and sophisticated aesthetic.
The Hermès Kelly Retourne features hidden stitching and softly rounded edges. To create this style, Hermès craftsmen hand-stitch the bag from the inside and then turn it out, resulting in a more relaxed silhouette. The Retourne is crafted from softer leathers, giving it a casual, understated charm. Its flexible design not only lends it a laid-back elegance but also provides slightly more interior space compared to the Sellier, making it a practical choice for everyday use. Each style reflects the timeless craftsmanship of Hermès while catering to different tastes and lifestyles.
Hermès Kelly Bag Materials
Most popular Hermès bag materials
The Hermès Kelly Bag offers a nearly endless variety of options, thanks to the wide range of materials used in its construction. Each material contributes to the bag’s unique look, feel, and functionality, making every Kelly a masterpiece of craftsmanship. The leather options often vary depending on the style of the bag, with both heritage and contemporary materials playing a role. Calfbox leather, for example, was the first material used for the Kelly bag in the Retourne style. This heritage leather has a smooth, refined finish, but it is prone to scratches and watermarks that, over time, blend into the leather, creating a mirror-like texture.
Togo leather, introduced in 1997, is the most popular choice for Kelly Retourne bags due to its supple quality and durability. Named after the Togolese Republic, Togo is a scratch-resistant calfskin with a round, irregular grain enhanced through a natural drumming process. While rare, Togo has also been used for Sellier bags, creating a special variant known as the Sellier Mou, which combines Togo’s softness with the structured silhouette of the Sellier. Another popular leather for Kelly Retourne bags is Clemence, made from cowhide. Clemence is softer, heavier, and less durable than Togo, with a shallow grain that creates a matte effect. Over time, Clemence leather allows the Retourne to relax and lose its shape, giving it a casual, laid-back charm. Evercolor leather, introduced in 2012, also lends itself to the Retourne style. Its malleable quality preserves the slouchy look characteristic of Retourne bags. This leather is known for its satiny finish and uniform, printed grain, and comes in a wide array of “forever” colors.
For those who prefer a more structured bag, Kelly Selliers are often made with firmer, more durable leathers. Epsom leather is a common choice for Sellier bags because of its ability to maintain a structured silhouette over time. This embossed leather has no natural grain, is scratch and water-resistant, and is easy to clean, though it is rarely used for Retourne styles. Similarly, Fjord leather is a highly durable material used for Sellier bags. It is waterproof, soft, matte, and heavier than other options, offering a unique balance of resilience and luxury.
Exotic Hermès Bag Materials
Exotic materials elevate Hermès Kelly bags to unparalleled levels of exclusivity and luxury. These rare and coveted options include crocodile, alligator, lizard, and ostrich skins, available in both glossy and matte finishes. Crocodile is the most expensive exotic material, with two species used: Niloticus crocodile, marked with “••” next to the Hermès logo stamp, and Porosus crocodile, identified by a “^” symbol. One of the most iconic exotic Kelly bags is the Himalaya Kelly Retourne, crafted from Niloticus crocodile and dyed in a white and gray gradient inspired by the snow-capped Himalaya Mountains. Alligator skin, while less expensive than crocodile, is softer, poreless, and has larger, non-uniform plates. It is marked by a “▢” symbol.
Lizard skin is typically used for smaller bags, such as the Kelly 25, Kelly 20, and Kelly 15, though it has occasionally been used for larger bags in very rare cases. Its ability to absorb pigments makes lizard skin bags available in a vivid array of colors. Niloticus lizard is identified by a “-” symbol, while Varanus Salvator lizard is marked with a “=” symbol. Ostrich skin, on the other hand, is the most affordable and durable exotic material Hermès uses. Recognizable by its follicles (the points where feathers grow), ostrich leather absorbs oils and darkens over time in areas of frequent touch. Hermès has been using this material since the 1920s, and it is available in a wide range of vibrant colors.
While Hermès Kelly bags are dyed in an extensive palette of colors, only a select range is released each year. Those seeking a broader variety can explore the resale market, which offers many additional options. To preserve the beauty and longevity of a Kelly bag, owners should keep it away from rain and direct sunlight and consider professional care treatments at the Hermès Spa. The Hermès Kelly Bag remains a timeless piece of artistry, offering unparalleled elegance and versatility.
Kelly Bag Sizes
One of the defining features of the Hermès Kelly Bag is its wide range of sizes, thoughtfully designed to cater to different lifestyles, occasions, and personal preferences. From petite statement pieces to functional travel bags, there’s a Kelly size for every need. Here's a closer look at the most popular sizes and their unique appeal.
The Hermès Kelly Bag is available in sizes ranging from the Kelly 15 to the Kelly 50. Among these, the Mini Kelly 20, Kelly 25, and Kelly 28 are the most sought-after. Both the Kelly 25 and Kelly 28 are practical for daily use, with the latter offering extra space for essentials. The smaller sizes, such as the Kelly 15 and Kelly 20, are chic and trendy, perfect for special occasions or when you only need to carry the bare minimum. On the other end of the spectrum, the larger sizes, like the Kelly 40 and Kelly 50, are highly functional and ideal for travel. The size of a Kelly Bag is determined by the length of its base—for example, a Kelly 25 measures 25 centimeters across.
Kelly 15
The Kelly 15 is the smallest size in the collection and an exquisite choice for evening occasions or events that call for minimalist accessories. Despite its compact size, it retains all the elegance and craftsmanship associated with the Kelly Bag. The Kelly 15 is designed to carry only the essentials, such as a lipstick, keys, and a small cardholder, making it a charming and refined addition to any outfit.
Kelly 20
Slightly larger than the Kelly 15, the Mini Kelly 20 balances style and functionality. This size is ideal for transitioning between casual outings and formal gatherings. It offers just enough space for essentials like a phone, wallet, and a few beauty products, while its petite size and elegant design make it easy to carry and effortlessly chic.
Kelly 25 and Kelly 28
The Kelly 25 and Kelly 28 are versatile, medium-sized options that blend practicality with timeless sophistication. These bags are spacious enough to hold daily essentials like a notebook, makeup pouch, and other necessities without being overly bulky. Their adaptability makes them a perfect choice for those seeking a bag that complements both workwear and casual ensembles, making them a favorite among Hermès enthusiasts.
Kelly 40
As one of the largest sizes in the lineup, the Kelly 40 is designed with functionality in mind. It offers ample room for items such as clothing, a laptop, and travel documents, making it an excellent companion for business trips or getaways. The Kelly 40 combines practicality with Hermès’ signature elegance, serving as a luxurious carryall for those who prioritize space without compromising on style.
Variations of the Hermès Kelly Bag
Hermès offers a range of Kelly-inspired clutches and bags, each bringing its own unique twist to the classic design. These variations maintain the iconic elements of the original Kelly, such as the straight-cut top flap, touret, turnlock closure, and collapsible top handle, while adapting the silhouette and functionality to suit different styles and occasions.
One of the most popular reinterpretations is the Kelly Cut, a sleek, rectangular clutch that retains all the signature Kelly features. It offers an elegant, minimalist design perfect for evening events or formal gatherings. The Kelly Longue, which was discontinued in 2008, is similar in design to the Kelly Cut but with a slightly larger trapezoidal shape. Due to its limited availability, the Kelly Longue can now only be found through luxury resale.
For those seeking a more compact version, the Kelly Pochette is a miniaturized version of the classic Kelly bag. This tiny, highly coveted piece is known for its rarity, making it a particularly valuable item in the Hermès collection.The Kelly Danse is a more casual iteration of the Kelly, designed by Jean-Paul Gaultier and released in 2008. With an elongated top strap, it offers a more relaxed style, ideal for everyday wear. Similarly casual is the So Kelly, a bucket-style bag that also features a long top strap, providing a laid-back alternative to the traditional Kelly.
For those who prefer a hands-free option, the Kelly Ado reimagines the classic design as a chic backpack. Featuring the signature top flap, touret, and turnlock closure, the Kelly Ado replaces the top handle with shoulder straps, making it a stylish and practical choice for those on the go.
The Kelly Dépêches Briefcase is a more masculine take on the Kelly, designed with a square body, top handle, and turnlock closure. It also includes a clochette, giving it a sophisticated yet functional appeal, ideal for business or professional use. The Kelly To Go is a versatile wallet introduced in 2020. With a removable strap, it can be worn as a crossbody, combining the practicality of a wallet with the style of a mini bag.
Each of these variations brings its own charm and character to the iconic Kelly design, allowing for a range of styles to suit different tastes and needs. Whether you’re looking for something casual, compact, or professional, the Hermès Kelly collection offers a perfect choice for every occasion.
Hermès Kelly Hardware Options
The classic Hermès Kelly bag offers two primary metal hardware options: gold-plated and palladium-plated, both adding a refined touch to the bag’s sophisticated design. The gold-plated hardware is typically crafted from 18-karat gold, although some rare Hermès Kelly bags feature exquisite 24-karat gold. In addition to these standard options, Hermès has also released Kelly bags with alternative hardware materials, including permabrass, rose gold, guilloche, and PVC. For those seeking the ultimate in luxury, the Diamond Hermès Kelly bags are particularly rare and highly coveted. These exclusive bags are crafted from luxurious crocodile skin and are adorned with diamond-encrusted 18-karat white gold hardware, making them a true masterpiece of craftsmanship and opulence.
Limited Edition Hermès Kellys
Over the years, Hermès has released a number of limited-edition versions of the iconic Kelly bag, each showcasing the brand's creativity and craftsmanship. These special editions have become highly sought after by collectors and fashion enthusiasts alike.
One of the most playful releases is the Hermès Kelly Doll, designed in 2000 by Jean-Louis Dumas, the Executive Chairman of Hermès. This miniature Kelly bag features anthropomorphic details, including a smiling face, arms, and legs. The Kelly Doll has become a beloved collector’s item, particularly in Asia, and is available in a variety of leathers and exotic skins. Each bag is stamped with the Hermès boutique where it was created, adding to its exclusivity. The Picnic Kelly, introduced in 2011, is another charming limited edition that captures the essence of a carefree summer afternoon. Made from Osier wicker and leather, the Picnic Kelly is a whimsical, yet practical bag, perfect for outdoor gatherings and country getaways.
For those who love color, the Candy Kelly offers a fun and vibrant twist on the classic Kelly design. Available in a range of candy-colored leathers, this bag features a striking contrast between dark and light exterior hues. It is complemented by either palladium-plated or permabrass hardware, adding a touch of elegance to its playful appearance.The Kelly Toile de Camp Déchaînée is another limited-edition bag that combines Hermès' equestrian heritage with a modern twist. Made from durable toile de camp canvas and leather, this bag features equestrian-themed accents and a nod to the brand’s iconic Haut à Courroies bag. With its bold, casual style, the Kelly Déchaînée offers a unique, adventurous feel.
In more recent years, Hermès has introduced several exciting new limited editions, including the Kelly In & Out, Kelly Padded, Kelly Colourmatric, and Kelly Sellier 20 En Désordre. Each of these bags, launched within the last two years, brings fresh design elements and innovation, keeping the Hermès Kelly bag as a timeless yet evolving icon in the world of luxury fashion. These limited-edition Kelly bags continue to captivate collectors with their creativity, rarity, and enduring appeal, making them prized additions to any fashion collection.
How to Buy an Hermès Kelly
To purchase a Hermès Kelly bag, clients must first build a strong relationship with a sales associate. Due to the brand's limited production of Kelly bags, these handbags are highly coveted and can be challenging to find. When a Kelly bag arrives at the store, prospective buyers are typically contacted by their assigned sales associate. However, the style of the bag available may not always align with the client’s first choice, as sales associates do not have the ability to place custom orders for specific bags. Additionally, it is rare for sales associates to know in advance which exact style of Kelly will be arriving, making the process more unpredictable.
Finding the perfect Kelly bag often requires patience, flexibility, and a willingness to wait for the right opportunity. For many buyers, this process can take time, as Hermès carefully manages the availability of their iconic bags.
In recent years, reselling platforms have provided an alternative path for acquiring a Kelly bag, disrupting the traditional purchase process. Trusted luxury goods resellers, such as Sotheby’s, have made it easier for buyers to access these rare and coveted bags. By offering a curated selection of Hermès Kelly bags, these platforms give customers the opportunity to find a Kelly bag that suits their personal style and preferences, bypassing the long wait times and uncertainty often associated with buying directly from Hermès boutiques. As a result, reselling has increased the accessibility of these luxury handbags, giving more people the chance to own one of these iconic bags.
Advantages to Buying Hermès Kelly Bags on the Secondary Market
1. Access
Sotheby's is able to provide access to a curated selection of Kelly bags from its long established global network of sellers. Sotheby's is a leading global marketplace that offers pristine Kelly bags in the most popular colors, materials and sizes along with rare Himalayan and Limited Edition Kelly bags. Our handbag specialists are always sourcing the more desirable Kelly bags from collectors around the world. Sotheby's also sells incredible private collections that include one of a kind Hermès Kelly bags.
2. Flexibility
Sotheby's provides multiple ways to purchase Kelly bags including auction, online, and in person in New York, Hong Kong, Zurich, Paris and London. Sotheby's also offers a concierge service if you need assistance sourcing a specific Kelly bag that isn't available at auction or online.
3. Value
While Kelly bags in pristine condition sell at a premium to retail, Sotheby's has bags for purchase at auction and marketplace in a range of the most desirable colors and materials. Secondary marketplaces like Sotheby's allow a buyer to purchase a store fresh pristine Kelly bag with the original box and all plastic still on the hardware without waiting for a call from an Hermès sales associate. While it is possible to purchase a Kelly Bag at an Hermès boutique, it is hard to predict how long it will take. Additionally if you don't have an existing relationship at the store, it is even harder to pick the exact bag including size, color and hardware. In many cases you may be offered a Kelly that may not be your desired color or size. Buyers also come to Sotheby's since they want to purchase more than two Kelly bags in a year. While we encourage you to build a relationship with an Hermès Sales Associate, Sotheby's can save you time when purchasing a Kelly.
4. Discovery
One of the best parts of a global luxury marketplace is discovering unique one of a kind Kelly bag or rare limited edition Kelly bags that are no longer available at Hermès. Sotheby's curated selection changes regularly and each auction has a unique selection of Kelly bags. You are likely to discover something new to you from Hermès.
Buy and Sell Hermès Kelly Bags at Sotheby's
Sotheby's always has a curated selection of the top Hermès Kelly bags available for immediate shipping. Sotheby's also sells Hermès bags at auction in New York, Paris, Zurich and Hong Kong. Expect to find rare and collectible Birkin and Kelly bags in every sale in addition to other popular Hermès bags in pristine condition in the newest colors and classic neutrals. Sotheby's handbag sales include rare and limited edition Hermès bags in exotic materials, custom color combinations and even diamond hardware.
Prices for Hermès bags range from $3,000 to $5,000 at the low end for the Herbag, Garden Party and Evelyne TPM. Prices for the most sought after Birkin and Kelly bags start at around $20,000 and can exceed $100,000 for the rarest and most desirable limited edition Birkin or Kelly bags.
- Explore upcoming handbag auctions in New York, London, Switzerland, Paris, and Hong Kong.
- Speak to a Salon Associate in New York, Zurich, London, Paris, or Hong Kong to schedule an appointment.
- Contact a Handbag Specialist about selling an Hermès bag or submit your item here for valuation.
Trust our worldwide network of leading handbag specialists from a globally renowned auction house established in 1744.
