The Tiffany Brooch: Timeless Accessory is Having A Fashion Resurgence
Learn more about the timeless designs to find the right Tiffany & Co brooch to elevate your style this season.
Early History of Tiffany Brooches
Paulding Farnham
Tiffany & Co has been designing brooches since its founding in 1837. Brooches were an essential fashion accessory for women in the 19th and early 20th century. Early brooch designs from Tiffany & Co featured botanical motifs often featuring diamonds and gemstones. During the latter half of the 19th century Tiffany & Co. became the leading supplier of luxury goods to high society families. The lead designer at Tiffany, Paulding Farnham, created jewels in the opulent Renaissance-revival style, also referred to as the style of Louis XVI. These elaborate Tiffany brooches perfectly complimented the extravagant gowns and ensembles by couture designers such as Worth and Vionnet. Farnham had access to some of the finest colored stones and diamonds made available by Tiffany’s chief gemologist George Frederick Kunz, who had joined the firm in 1877.
Sotheby's sold an incredible Tiffany brooch from 1888 designed by Farnham for almost $330,000 in 2022. At the center of this exceptional Tiffany brooch is a superlative Colombian emerald that measured up to Kunz’ exacting standards. The gem possesses a rich, warm green hue of strong saturation and excellent clarity, expertly faceted in a refined pear-shape. Farnham’s source of inspiration for the flanking leaves and cascading clusters of diamonds may have been the Broche Sévginé. This centerpiece of the Currant Leaf Parure created for the Empress Eugenie by Alfred Bapst in 1855. This piece purchased by Tiffany & Co. at the sale of the French Crown jewels in 1887. At that same auction Tiffany had also purchased one of the lots of her “Great Jeweled Belt”, an emerald and diamond pendant transformed into a brooch. This Tiffany emerald and diamond brooch was conceived for one of America’s privileged royalty, Eveline Hall Rumsey, who joined the ranks of Caroline Astor in New York, Boston’s Josephine Mellen Ayer and Jane Stanford in San Francisco.
Louis Comfort Tiffany
By the early 1900s, Tiffany brooches took on more artistic and organic form led by the designs of Louis Comfort Tiffany. His designs drew heavily on nature, with butterflies, dragonflies, and flowers in full bloom being common motifs. These brooches were often made using vibrant colored gemstones, enamel, and pearls, and they emphasized flowing lines and intricate details. In 2010, Sotheby's sold a rare Tiffany Louis Comfort brooch from 1920 featuring a large round black opal for just over $100,000.
Tiffany Art Deco
Tiffany Brooches during the Art Deco period ware know for their geometric shapes featuring diamonds, sapphires and/or emeralds set in platinum in symmetrical designs. Sotheby's sold a four leaf clover diamond Tiffany brooch from 1910 for just over $200,000 in 2021. The Tiffany brooch features pear shaped diamonds weighing 3.39, 2.86, 2.77 and 2.49 carats that are D color and VS1 to Internally Flawless clarity.
The Tiffany diamond brooch, one of the most famous creations, came from this period when the emphasis on diamonds grew. The famous 128.54-carat Tiffany Yellow Diamond, set in a brooch for a time, became a symbol of the company’s expertise with rare and exquisite gemstones.
Most Famous Tiffany Brooch: Schlumberger Bird on a Rock
Jean Schlumberger joined Tiffany in 1956 and revitalized brooches with whimsical and creative designs. Schlumberger’s nature-inspired brooches, such as sea creatures, birds, and floral motifs, became iconic. His famous Bird on a Rock brooch, featuring a gemstone and a jeweled bird perched on it, became one of Tiffany’s most recognizable pieces. The Tiffany Bird on a Rock brooch always features a whimsical and stylized bird perched on a large gem stone. The feathers on the bird are often encrusted with pavé diamonds. Schlumberger used vibrant-colored gemstones in the brooch including aquamarines, citrines, and colored diamonds. There are many versions of the brooch with slight variations of the bird while the rock can be different cuts, sizes and gem stones.
Schlumberger Tiffany brooches were popular with Jacqueline Kennedy, Duchess of Windsor, Elizabeth Taylor and Bunny Mellon while he was designing for Tiffany & Co. Tiffany Schlumberger brooches in elegant floral motifs are also among his most popular designs.
While Schlumberger died in 1987, his iconic designs continue to be produced by Tiffany & Co including his iconic Bird on a Rock brooch. His influence and past designs remain an essential part of Tiffany's legacy. Contemporary celebrities including Beyoncé, Jay-Z, Micheal B Jordan, Emily Blunt, Usher and Trevor Noah have all worn the famous Tiffany Brooch Bird on a Rock Brooch since LVHM purchased Tiffany & Co. in 2021.
Modern Tiffany Brooch
Modern Tiffany & Co brooches reflect the company's strong heritage in craftsmanship, diamond and colored gem stone sourcing, innovative techniques and collaborating with renowned designers. The most popular motifs remain floral and nature inspired designs. Tiffany began partnering with Elsa Peretti in 1974 and her sleek minimalist designs were an immediate hit. Elsa Peretti Tiffany brooch designs including the Open Heart and Starfish are still available at Tiffany & Co despite her passing in 2021. In 2024, Tiffany celebrated the 50th anniversary of their collaboration by releasing special editions of Peretti's classic designs, underscoring her enduring influence. Paloma Picasso launched her first collection with Tiffany in 1980 with bold graphic designs. The Tiffany Graffitti collection inspired by New York City street art was interpreted into bold X and O shaped Tiffany brooches. Tiffany has also introduced other modern brooch motifs including the popular Tiffany Fireworks Brooch. This Tiffany brooch collection was introduced in the early 1990s and featured a range of gem stones and precious metals in radiant designs.
Fashion Resurgence of the Brooch
It's not surprising that Who What Wear, WWD and Zoe Report all wrote about the resurgence of the brooch since The Swans inspired fashion is one of fall's biggest trends. Feud: Capote vs. The Swans nicely previewed 1950s and 1960s high society glamour that was a top trend for fall 2024. Elevated basics in timeless silhouettes were shown by Chanel and Valentino while Carven created the perfect modern day Swan with pencil skirts, long gloves and court heels. Prada's entire collection channeled the refined elegance and sophistication of The Swans era. Miu Miu added multiple brooches to everything from mini dresses to double breasted coats. Instead of opting for a costume jewelry brooch, an elegant Tiffany brooch is perfect to wear now to embrace fashion's hottest jewelry trend but will remain a timeless classic for years to come. A Tiffany brooch, like classic 1950s glamour continues to be reinterpreted and resurrected season after season. A Tiffany brooch is also extremely versatile since it can be worn in the hair, attached to a necklace as a pendent and used to secure a scarf. Whether your preference is an iconic Tiffany Schlumberger Bird on a Rock or modern Tiffany Fireworks brooch, Sotheby's often has a curated selection of the most collectible Tiffany brooches.
Buying and Selling Tiffany & Co Brooches At Sotheby's
Sotheby's often has impressive Tiffany & Co. brooches available at auction. Sotheby's also has a curated selection of Tiffany & Co brooches available for immediate purchase. If you would like to view a Tiffany & Co brooch, a salon specialist would be happy to assist. Sotheby's is also able to source Tiffany & Co brooches from its global supplier network. Tiffany & Co brooches generally start at $5,000 and can exceed $100,000 depending on the design, diamonds, gem stones and provenance.
- Explore upcoming jewelry at auctions in New York, London, Switzerland, Paris, and Hong Kong.
- Speak to a Salon Associate in New York, Zurich or Hong Kong to schedule an appointment.
- Speak to a Jewelry Specialist about selling a Tiffany & Co. brooch.
Trust our worldwide network of leading jewelry specialists from a globally renowned auction house with a 280-year history.
